Gundam Modeling Tutorial
Since yesterdays post, I have had some death threats threatening that I would have my spleen ripped out and my brain urinated on if I didn't release the "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People" *now* - so here it is. As usual, I have used the Gallery template to hold the tutorial and the modified the blogg template which pulls everything from the Galleries automatically which is why you see the "Taken with IXY DIGITAL 400. The above image is archived in the Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People gallery. (Click to enlarge)" everywhere - just ignore it while I think of what the UI should look like.
I will be adding more stuff as I build more Gundams - keep those mince pies peeled.
This guide is not meant to show you how to build a model step by step but should provide enough tips to make some groovesome stuff.
You can also go directly to the galleries to see this tutorial too.
This is an etching decal which comes with some Gundam kits. For some extremely annoying reason, Bandai dont include etching decals with all of their kits and the only reason I can think of why they do this is to cut costs - those bastards.
Anyway, if you dont want to spoil your Gundam with the normal stickers - you can always try to get hold of some third party etching decals.
Anyway, here is a shot of some decals which came with the recent One Year War Gundam. Cut out the bit that you want to etch with a scalpel before proceeding.
Then use some of that clear scotch tape to hold the decal in place.
Next off is to use a hard object (the back of the scalpel is ideal) and then etch away. As you etch, you will notice the decal coming away from the plastic sheet. Be-careful not to move the decal or you will end up with a mess and start to cry. Also, try to etch from one side of the decal to the other otherwise you may get air bubbles under the decal (and cry).
Once you think you have etched the decal on to the piece in question, carefully and slowly peel away the plastic sheet - sometimes the decal has not been etched on properly - in which case you can slowly put back the plastic sheet in the original position and re-etch.
This is the decal in place - as you can see I didn't get the air bubbles out. After crying for 10 seconds, I got a cotton bud to push out the bubbles. Whether its a decal or a sticker, you can use the scalpel to slice an air bubble just a bit before wiping the decal/sticker down.
"Sumi ire" is the Japanese word used to describe where you use either a special marker or paint to paint along grooves in the kit. These grooves are usually maintenance hatches or where pieces of metal join etc. I call it Inking but I am not sure if that is the right term but I will use it anyway.
This is the back of Gundams head un-inked. As you can see it looks quite sad so inking is the order of the day...
Go to your nearest modeling store and grab yourself some Gundam markers (and don't forget to pay for them). Then draw along the grooves on the head. If you are inking on a white surface, grey, purple or brown is recommended as the color to use. Do this when you are at home and not on the train as you will have ink going over the edges - you will probably get strange looks and maybe even arrested for being a nuisance in public.
Now this may not be common knowledge, but you can use a pencil rubber to clean up after inking. I didn't know this when I started modeling and used thinner to rub out excess ink which was bad because I ended up melting a few parts by laying on too much thinner.
You can also use fine sandpaper to remove any offensive overflowing ink too.
This is the back of Gundams head after inking - and cool does it look too.
This is the PG GP01 just after completion - as you can see it is un-inked. I didn't ink at the time as I was worried that I was not going to do a good job and spoil it (after all - they are expensive and I spent a few days making it).
After looking at other people models however, I realized the importance of inking and that you have to use the "just do it" attitude - if you screw up then use a rubber or sand paper and before you know it you will have a mean looking Gundam - check the next slide...
This is the PG GP-01 after inking - as you can see it looks very different to the pre-inked state and closer to how it looked like in the series.
I actually did not ink this model until a year after I completed it!
So this is the Gundam tutorial for *busy people* - you can tell by the way I spray the pieces. The plastic frame which holds the pieces is called the Runner - the bit of the runner which attaches directly to the piece is called the Gate.
What many people do is cut out all the pieces, sand down, go over with primer, sand down again and then paint - but that would mean that I would need a million years just to complete one model!
Not having a million years to spare, what I do is use a method which some people may call the "darn-right-lazy" method which is to spray the whole runner.
What I do then is to cut out the pieces as I build the model and then spray over any visible nip (snip?) marks. Nip marks are the marks left over in the piece after nipping out from the runner.
What I do is spray directly onto the Runner without any primer. This is a Runner out of the box. Constructing a Gundam model without painting means that you will end up with an icky wimpy Gundam who would have a tough time frightening off a house mite.
This is the same Runner after spraying. As you can see the texture is totally different.
Here are some Runners hanging out to dry outside. Hanging Runners outside to dry is good because you wont choke and die from the fumes from the paint as you might if you hanged the Runners out to dry indoors. But, you will get dust falling on the Runners.
What a lot of professionals do is to do the spraying indoors and build a vacuum booth which sucks out the fumes and smell.
Being the "Gundam modeling tutorial for busy people" I just dont have time for all that. If dust does settle down on the Runners while the paint dries - I just smooth down the pieces with fine sand paper.
More Runners hanging out to dry outside. The Runners dry very quickly and you can leave them there for about 20 mins.
This is me inking the wings on the Aile Striker. This Runner has been given its red coat of spray and now I am doing the inking with the usual Gundam markers.
It really depends on the type of piece that you are inking but I find that I can ink long pieces easier when they are still attached to the runner.
After nipping out the pieces, the nip marks will be visible - so what I do is to spray over whilst being careful not to spray over the grooves which I have spent the last hour inking. If you do spray over the inking - just re-ink.
This is Gundam MkII after completion. Notice the ton of plastic left over. Bandai announced this year that they are looking at ways of cutting costs of making the Gundam kits which gave me a fright but then they said they want to concentrate on the Runners - all the plastic which gets thrown away. I say that they should just charge more and make better quality Gundam kits instead.
The smaller kits such as the Master Grade series are much cheaper than the PG series and this is probably why there are less parts which are colored. The vulcan cannons on the side of Gundams head for example in this kit are not separate pieces which means you have to paint them.
get yourself a fine brush to do the painting.
It really depends on the size of the kit but a can of spray like this one will be enough for one Master Grade kit. If you are making a Perfect grade then you probably need two cans (again depends on the size of the pieces etc).
After spraying, turn the can upside down and spray for a split second - this prevents the nozzle from clogging up. A can of spray typically costs about 500 yen (5 USD).
This is my airbrush filled with just enough ink for the shadowing that I am going to do on my MG Gundam. Shadowing is the technique where one sprays the edges of the pieces to make the whole model stand out. Shadowing is different from weathering where weathering is done to make the model look like its had its butt kicked 20 times.
You should be able to see that the ink is very thin - I use about 70% thinner and the rest paint. What I do is to mix a bottle of paint and thinner prior to spraying - the bottle of paint usually lasts me a long time - the paint in this picture was mixed over a year ago.
Do have a piece of paper handy - use something like A4 paper and not toilet paper - especially not used toilet paper - don't want yer Gundam to be smelly and brown. Regardless of the colors of the pieces, the white paper will help you adjust the airbrush which determines the amount of ink flow.
Before you spray any piece, make sure you spray *away* from the piece because the head of the airbrush will accumulate ink whenever you leave it for a period of time. If you sprayed directly on to the piece, the airbrush will splutter and your lovely Gundam piece will look like its been dipped in diarrhea (minus the spinach and corn).
Make sure you have a bag of disposable gloves handy otherwise you will have ink in your ears - for those who pick your ears often.
This is me applying some shadowing. When using the airbrush, be very careful how much you apply - you could be spraying away thinking that there is not enough shadow - then you hold the piece up to the light and start to cry realizing that you have applied too much. If you have applied too much shadow then you are screwed because the work to remove the shadowing is a pain in the armpits.
You will have to re-spray the piece in question, do the inking again and if you had some etching decals you would have to remove that too. At this moment in time, you may want to consider getting a nearby friend to kick you or decide that you want a battle damaged Gundam...
If all you have about you is spray cans but need some paint to paint some Vulcan cannons (for example), then do what you can see in the photo. Take an empty pot and spray into it. I thought that the spray would go everywhere but the spray can behaves quite well.
Here is a small collection of the paints that I use. Here you can see Gundam Color Spray (which is toxic), Mr Color and Tamiya Color.
The small pots are also Tamiya color and are used for small details on the models.
On the right you can see Top Coat. There are two types of Top Coat - one is gloss and the other matt. I prefer all my models to be matt. Even if I cant get hold of some matt paint (the red Gundam Color paint in this photo is gloss), when I use Top Coat to spray over gloss, the gloss will turn to matt. Top coat helps keep the paint n stickers from peeling away from the model but is not weather or drop-from-third-floor-balcony proof. if you like to pose your Gundam a lot, you will find that paint does wear off after a while even if you have used Top Coat.
At the bottom of the picture you can see some Gundam Markers. The fat markers are used for large grooves like the ones in PG GP01's legs and the thin markers for the other thin stuff.
Now here is a word of advice, if you need some grey - make sure you get a few pens and not just one. As you ink your Gundam, the nibs become blunt and depending on the piece you ink, the nib may even split apart. You can still use these split nibs for large grooves but if you try to use them on a thin groove then you will end up with a mess.
I use Mr Hobbys 250 thin type thinner - the jars on the right are used to make ink for shadowing. Make sure you have a droplet - pouring the thinner around just does not work without it.
Just comparing the size between an MG Guncannon and a PG GP-01. Up until the One Year War MG Gundam that came out this year - most of the MG series only had a limited amount of mobility - the new MGs that are coming out now however are close to Perfect Grade specs which means that you can pose your MG to do the going-for-a-crap-in-the-woods pose with ease.
As you can see however, the MG models are much smaller than the PG models.
Mr Hobby Mini Compressor. I first started of modeling by using air canisters but after a few puffs, the canisters freeze over causing air pressure to destabilize which then causes your air brush to spit rather than blow. I tried the two canister trick but I would still have to wait for the other can to cool down. So I decided to splash out about 15,000 yen (cant remember) on this compressor. As long as I don't intend on attempting to make life size Gundams then this will be (and has been) quite adequate for now.The compressor comes with wobbly rubber feet so it does not rumble and the sound level is about the same as a mid range fart.
After construction, decal and inking is complete, its time to take everything apart to spray over the nip marks.
Some tools of the trade. The nipper cost about 700 yen. You cant use any old nipper - modeling nippers have one flat edge which is essential otherwise you will have the Gates sticking out the pieces.
From left to right - a comparison bewteen un-inked, inked and after-cleaning-up-the-inking.
I hope you can see whats going on here - pieces like armor by default can be removed from the frame underneath - but sometimes these snap fit pieces have such long 'male-parts' (I have no idea what these bits are called) that once put together, you will have a hard time pulling the pieces apart - sometimes breaking something in the process. What you should do then is to snip these 'male parts' (ouch) at an angle like the one in the photo - this makes it easier to pull apart the snap fit parts.
I take no responsibility for those who get confused as to which 'male parts' people end up snipping.
MG Gundam in the process of being...born? This MG took about 3-4 hours to put together.
PG Strike Gundam ready for its dose of Top Coat. The trick (trick?) here is to take a deep breath and spray all over and then run away otherwise you may die from the toxic fumes.
Be sure to remove armor when spraying as you want Top Coat reaching and covering the frame underneath - otherwise you will have paint coming off the under frame and rubbing off on your armor.
Before I put my kits together, I spray the whole Runner. After putting the pieces together, I take everything apart and separate them into their different colors. What I do now is then to spray over any visible nip marks - nip marks - especially on weapons - stick out like a half severed thumb so be sure to go over with a lick of paint.
Notice that I have left the legs, arms and torso in one piece - I dont bother to spray over nip marks which are not visible - and besides, if I did, this "Gundam modeling tutorial for busy people" would not be here.
PG Strike Gundam ready for a going over with a second coat of spray to cover up any visible nip marks.
Getting ready for a bout of Gundam making.
Make sure you have tons of newspaper, disposable gloves and most importantly a mask. Even with a mask on however, you are going to end up inhaling a ton of paint - go ahead and blow your nose after - you will notice that your bogies have turned black! Make sure you drink a ton of water while spraying. Your clothes will end up with paint too unless you are the type who likes to spray in your birthday suit...
This is the box for Strike Gundam - it was waiting for me when I arrived back in Japan from Seattle - a nice welcome home present ;-)
Most PG boxes are of this size - the PG GP01 is twice the size of this box - take note when ordering.
Packing up PG Gundam MK II to go to Seattle. If you are being relocated (or if you just want to pack away your Gundams) make sure that you pack the pieces in a way that they dont rub against each other.
PG GP-01 armor pieces after shadowing - i think you can make out the difference. This was my second PG and still in the middle of learning. Now here is a useful piece of advice.....
When you have a part (like the leg of PG GP01) which has a few pieces joined up to make the armor - do the shadowing with all the pieces of armor in place instead of shadowing piece by piece. What I found after shadowing piece by piece is that when I put the armor back together, all the pieces had different amounts of shadowing making that part look extremely bad.
The box for PG GP01 - I did not bother to make the station that came with it - neither did I bother with the Full Vernian parts either which ended up ini the bin. You may want to keep some unwanted pieces to test out your airbrush though.
PG Gundam MKII after shadowing. You can make out the Air cannister in the corner of the pic - this was taken before I got an air compressor. If you are considering going serious with Gundam modeling then get yourself a small air compressor instead of trying out these cans - these cans are absolutely useless - what happens is that you would be spraying for a while and then notice the air pressure drop as the can freezes over. You replace the can with the standby can but that freezes over too - but the first can is still frozen! You will also end up spoiling your gundam because as the air pressure drops, the flow of ink being sprayed also changes and before you know it your Gundam looks like its been dragged through some Bantha pudoo.
PG Gundam MKII ready for its dose of Top Coat. Remember - they key here is to spray and run!
PG Gundam MKII after a bout of shadowing. I used toothpicks with a bit of blutac at the end to hold a piece - now I just use a scalpel.
I was down and out at the time and you can tell because of the crummy airbrush that you can see in the photo together with the two air canisters (Que. violin).
Construction of PG Gundam MKII leg. All PGs come with a frame underneath which is made up of a zillion pieces which seems a waste because the armor just covers it all up!
Runners fresh out of the PG Gundam MKII box - my first Gundam kit. In general, if you are buying a PG in Japan it will cost about 10000 yen (100 USD) and MGs in general cost 4000 yen.
Inking the wing of Aile Striker. Some people paint over the grooves and wipe off with a cotton bud but that kinda takes more time...
Even if you are really careful at snipping out a piece from a runner, you may still get a bit of plastic left over - cut off with a scalpel and sand down - then re-spray over the mark with the original spray that you initially used.
In the middle of constructing the Aile Striker. there are only a few parts and the whole thing can be put together in a few hours. Even if you cant read Japanese, the manuals are all "Lego standard."
This is the hand which comes with PG Strike Gundam. Those who have a collection of PGs will know that it's a different mold from the previous PGs. The hands that came with previous PGs broke easily - my PG Gundam MKII has already lost a finger!
I went and ordered two pairs of PG Strike Gundam hands - re-sprayed and replaced the old hands on my pre-strike gundam models (PG GP01 and PG Gundam MKII).
The new mold is much stronger and looks much better too.
You will notice that in the instructions of any Gundam kit, that there is a little form - if you fill it in with the piece number and quantity, you can order replacement parts from Bandai's customer service center. Unfortunately it looks like you can make use of this service only if you live in Japan. And no - please dont ask me!
Parts from Aile Striker ready to have its nip marks covered up with a coat of spray.
Aile Striker having its first and final dose of Top Coat. If you are going to use Top Coat - be sure to order a few cans.
Before you do the Top Coat, brush off any dust with a toothbrush or similar brush type object (like your eyelids or nasal hair).
Parts from PG Strike Gundam before and after inking/stickering. Strike was another example where I initially decided on no-stickers/no-inking - the main reason was because I was worried that I was going to ruin it. But after doing the deeds, Strike Gundam looks totally different - much cooler and meaner than before.
MG Gundam ready for its Top Coat. As you can see - I screwed up the shield with too much shadowing but re-doing the shield takes 20 years so I decided to leave it and say that Gundam was in a fight with something grey and wet.
This is how I spray shadow my pieces - shove a scalpel in the back and you are done.
You can just about notice the difference between the shadowed and non shadowed piece. Unfortunately, the edges of the stickers start to stand out ;-(
So thats it for now - more to come as I buy more Gundams!
And hopefully you should end up something similar to this - or better ;-) Have a look in the galleries for more shots of completed Gundam kits.
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College student
Thats hardcore. I use a nail clipper and thin pernament marker to make my gundam detailed. And i paint sometime depending how i feel but i always paint the yellow gold.
College student
Thats hardcore. I use a nail clipper and thin pernament marker to make my gundam detailed. And i paint sometime depending how i feel but i always paint the yellow gold.
College student
Thats hardcore. I use a nail clipper and thin pernament marker to make my gundam detailed. And i paint sometime depending how i feel but i always paint the yellow gold.
College student
Thats hardcore. I use a nail clipper and thin pernament marker to make my gundam detailed. And i paint sometime depending how i feel but i always paint the yellow gold.
Student and Executioner
http://bringston.wordpress.com
Dang! Making Gundam is a whole lot harder than I thought! Thanks for the guide, Danny!
Student and Executioner
http://bringston.wordpress.com
Dang! Making Gundam is a whole lot harder than I thought! Thanks for the guide, Danny!
Student and Executioner
http://bringston.wordpress.com
Dang! Making Gundam is a whole lot harder than I thought! Thanks for the guide, Danny!
Student and Executioner
http://bringston.wordpress.com
Dang! Making Gundam is a whole lot harder than I thought! Thanks for the guide, Danny!
Hey Danny, great tutorial! I have a question, in one of your pictures I noticed that you were using a Mr. Hobby
Pro-Spray Mk-(w/e#) with air cans. The thing is I recently bought one and I am having trouble using it. I can't read Japanese, so the instruction manual is of no use to me. Can you give me some tips/pointers with this particular airbrush? Thanks!
Hey Danny, great tutorial! I have a question, in one of your pictures I noticed that you were using a Mr. Hobby
Pro-Spray Mk-(w/e#) with air cans. The thing is I recently bought one and I am having trouble using it. I can't read Japanese, so the instruction manual is of no use to me. Can you give me some tips/pointers with this particular airbrush? Thanks!
Hey Danny, great tutorial! I have a question, in one of your pictures I noticed that you were using a Mr. Hobby
Pro-Spray Mk-(w/e#) with air cans. The thing is I recently bought one and I am having trouble using it. I can't read Japanese, so the instruction manual is of no use to me. Can you give me some tips/pointers with this particular airbrush? Thanks!
Hey Danny, great tutorial! I have a question, in one of your pictures I noticed that you were using a Mr. Hobby
Pro-Spray Mk-(w/e#) with air cans. The thing is I recently bought one and I am having trouble using it. I can't read Japanese, so the instruction manual is of no use to me. Can you give me some tips/pointers with this particular airbrush? Thanks!
High School student (sophomore)
hi Danny this tut was very helpful. I've built 2 gundams first one was 1/144 burning gundam and 5 days ago i built 1/100 sword strike gundam. this was a good tutorial but can you just prime, spray, sand, spray,then detal please help me out.
High School student (sophomore)
hi Danny this tut was very helpful. I've built 2 gundams first one was 1/144 burning gundam and 5 days ago i built 1/100 sword strike gundam. this was a good tutorial but can you just prime, spray, sand, spray,then detal please help me out.
High School student (sophomore)
hi Danny this tut was very helpful. I've built 2 gundams first one was 1/144 burning gundam and 5 days ago i built 1/100 sword strike gundam. this was a good tutorial but can you just prime, spray, sand, spray,then detal please help me out.
High School student (sophomore)
hi Danny this tut was very helpful. I've built 2 gundams first one was 1/144 burning gundam and 5 days ago i built 1/100 sword strike gundam. this was a good tutorial but can you just prime, spray, sand, spray,then detal please help me out.
大学生徒
http://ichinichijuu.blogspot.com/
Where does one obtain scalpels at O_o heh
大学生徒
http://ichinichijuu.blogspot.com/
Where does one obtain scalpels at O_o heh
大学生徒
http://ichinichijuu.blogspot.com/
Where does one obtain scalpels at O_o heh
大学生徒
http://ichinichijuu.blogspot.com/
Where does one obtain scalpels at O_o heh
Teacher; Primary School
Thank you for a wonderful tutorial! Now once my two PG kits arrive, I will follow your advice and stock up on more paints, thinners, and extra pieces for my compressor! You surely know your stuff, thanks
Teacher; Primary School
Thank you for a wonderful tutorial! Now once my two PG kits arrive, I will follow your advice and stock up on more paints, thinners, and extra pieces for my compressor! You surely know your stuff, thanks
Teacher; Primary School
Thank you for a wonderful tutorial! Now once my two PG kits arrive, I will follow your advice and stock up on more paints, thinners, and extra pieces for my compressor! You surely know your stuff, thanks
Teacher; Primary School
Thank you for a wonderful tutorial! Now once my two PG kits arrive, I will follow your advice and stock up on more paints, thinners, and extra pieces for my compressor! You surely know your stuff, thanks
student , otaku and awesome blogger
http://otakudan.com
this helps so much, i have been making gundam for 6 months but all i have making are the 1/144 models from the HGC series, maybe i should make a master grade
student , otaku and awesome blogger
http://otakudan.com
this helps so much, i have been making gundam for 6 months but all i have making are the 1/144 models from the HGC series, maybe i should make a master grade
student , otaku and awesome blogger
http://otakudan.com
this helps so much, i have been making gundam for 6 months but all i have making are the 1/144 models from the HGC series, maybe i should make a master grade
student , otaku and awesome blogger
http://otakudan.com
this helps so much, i have been making gundam for 6 months but all i have making are the 1/144 models from the HGC series, maybe i should make a master grade
College Student :D
Hi Danny, could you please email me about this question? :P
For the gundam markers where you fill in the panel lines, is it ok to use a different sort of pen?
The pen I have at the moment is a permanent fine tip, but i tested on a SD kit and I made a error and I couldn't use the rubber trick to remove it :S
Should I stop before proceeding with the PG panel lines?
Thanks Danny
College Student :D
Hi Danny, could you please email me about this question? :P
For the gundam markers where you fill in the panel lines, is it ok to use a different sort of pen?
The pen I have at the moment is a permanent fine tip, but i tested on a SD kit and I made a error and I couldn't use the rubber trick to remove it :S
Should I stop before proceeding with the PG panel lines?
Thanks Danny
College Student :D
Hi Danny, could you please email me about this question? :P
For the gundam markers where you fill in the panel lines, is it ok to use a different sort of pen?
The pen I have at the moment is a permanent fine tip, but i tested on a SD kit and I made a error and I couldn't use the rubber trick to remove it :S
Should I stop before proceeding with the PG panel lines?
Thanks Danny
College Student :D
Hi Danny, could you please email me about this question? :P
For the gundam markers where you fill in the panel lines, is it ok to use a different sort of pen?
The pen I have at the moment is a permanent fine tip, but i tested on a SD kit and I made a error and I couldn't use the rubber trick to remove it :S
Should I stop before proceeding with the PG panel lines?
Thanks Danny
student
Hey dan great gundam tutorial, but I got a question maybe I missed it but how do you color the face? And also what kind of spary paint do you use? the one with double stars? or is there a specific can I need to buy.
student
Hey dan great gundam tutorial, but I got a question maybe I missed it but how do you color the face? And also what kind of spary paint do you use? the one with double stars? or is there a specific can I need to buy.
student
Hey dan great gundam tutorial, but I got a question maybe I missed it but how do you color the face? And also what kind of spary paint do you use? the one with double stars? or is there a specific can I need to buy.
student
Hey dan great gundam tutorial, but I got a question maybe I missed it but how do you color the face? And also what kind of spary paint do you use? the one with double stars? or is there a specific can I need to buy.
College Student :D
Hi there!!
I've just finished building my PG Strike *drools* xD
And if you're on a real tight low bdget like moi, then your strike will look pants.
Because there are so many different shades of white that are used (paying £100 for a model kit, surely they could've made the white the same shade ¬___¬ )
But anywho!!
With the etching stickers, how do you do them?
With mg kits there are easy to transfer, but the PG types don't work :S
Am I doing something wrong??
Please, anyone reply >_
College Student :D
Hi there!!
I've just finished building my PG Strike *drools* xD
And if you're on a real tight low bdget like moi, then your strike will look pants.
Because there are so many different shades of white that are used (paying £100 for a model kit, surely they could've made the white the same shade ¬___¬ )
But anywho!!
With the etching stickers, how do you do them?
With mg kits there are easy to transfer, but the PG types don't work :S
Am I doing something wrong??
Please, anyone reply >_
College Student :D
Hi there!!
I've just finished building my PG Strike *drools* xD
And if you're on a real tight low bdget like moi, then your strike will look pants.
Because there are so many different shades of white that are used (paying £100 for a model kit, surely they could've made the white the same shade ¬___¬ )
But anywho!!
With the etching stickers, how do you do them?
With mg kits there are easy to transfer, but the PG types don't work :S
Am I doing something wrong??
Please, anyone reply >_
College Student :D
Hi there!!
I've just finished building my PG Strike *drools* xD
And if you're on a real tight low bdget like moi, then your strike will look pants.
Because there are so many different shades of white that are used (paying £100 for a model kit, surely they could've made the white the same shade ¬___¬ )
But anywho!!
With the etching stickers, how do you do them?
With mg kits there are easy to transfer, but the PG types don't work :S
Am I doing something wrong??
Please, anyone reply >_
Student
Just ordered my PG strike and skygrasper. Going to be my first PG and my first atempt at painting. Dont freak yet i have 3 HG wing models to practise on first. Have also built, and inked a MG Strike freedom as well, didn't have the money to paint that one though. And it's got all the decals on now so not likely to happen. Any words of wisdom are welcome to help me ruining a large amount of money. Its a shame the kits actually don't cost alot, its the damn postage. Both models bought together plus postage cost me £101, or roughly $200. Building it is going to be an experience.
Student
Just ordered my PG strike and skygrasper. Going to be my first PG and my first atempt at painting. Dont freak yet i have 3 HG wing models to practise on first. Have also built, and inked a MG Strike freedom as well, didn't have the money to paint that one though. And it's got all the decals on now so not likely to happen. Any words of wisdom are welcome to help me ruining a large amount of money. Its a shame the kits actually don't cost alot, its the damn postage. Both models bought together plus postage cost me £101, or roughly $200. Building it is going to be an experience.
Student
Just ordered my PG strike and skygrasper. Going to be my first PG and my first atempt at painting. Dont freak yet i have 3 HG wing models to practise on first. Have also built, and inked a MG Strike freedom as well, didn't have the money to paint that one though. And it's got all the decals on now so not likely to happen. Any words of wisdom are welcome to help me ruining a large amount of money. Its a shame the kits actually don't cost alot, its the damn postage. Both models bought together plus postage cost me £101, or roughly $200. Building it is going to be an experience.
Student
Just ordered my PG strike and skygrasper. Going to be my first PG and my first atempt at painting. Dont freak yet i have 3 HG wing models to practise on first. Have also built, and inked a MG Strike freedom as well, didn't have the money to paint that one though. And it's got all the decals on now so not likely to happen. Any words of wisdom are welcome to help me ruining a large amount of money. Its a shame the kits actually don't cost alot, its the damn postage. Both models bought together plus postage cost me £101, or roughly $200. Building it is going to be an experience.
Student
Wow awesome tut. Now, does anyone have a good site that sells gundam models/markers?
Student
Wow awesome tut. Now, does anyone have a good site that sells gundam models/markers?
Student
Wow awesome tut. Now, does anyone have a good site that sells gundam models/markers?
Student
Wow awesome tut. Now, does anyone have a good site that sells gundam models/markers?
College Student/Model Enthusist
http://www.lostmymusic.com
Wonderful work on the model, but just wondering, is there any precise reason that you prefer spray-painting and air-brushing over brush-painting? The texture that you get out of Sprays I find to be much more desirable, but are there any other advantages that outweigh the disadvantages with smaller kits? (1/144th is where I do most of my work) I just find it such overkill to work with for smaller units, where-as with a brush I can do much more precise work, and I don't waist any paint.
Would you be able to suggest any specific "nippers"? Is there a set officially put out by Bandai that I would be able to pick up?
student
danny i got a quesiton, I built a few models but i haven't gone as far as painting them or anything. i wanted to make the models look flat instead of just og the glossy looking plastic it come in. is topcoat a good solution to this?
Student
Wow 0.o thats looks hard, i didnt know u had to do so much stuff and an airbrush..... im going to go cry now
Occuwhat? o_O
I just found your site the other day, and I have to say I'm rather glad to find out that I'm not the only one gets most of his painting done while the pieces are still attached to the runner.
Unemployed student
http://kindless.livejournal.com
Since Topcat is a bit out of my budget, I went to a near by Michael's and bought a matte finish spray to play around with. It said it can be used on plastic, so I thought it can't be any worse than Topcoat. I sprayed two of my gundams, a HG Sword Impulse, and a MG Kaempfer. Cept now some of the parts on Kaempfer don't stay too well. Did I do something wrong, or do I need a more specific type of finish spray?
What camera did you use to take these pictures? Did you use a tri-stand?
Student
Hi there :)
I've just recently stumbled upon this website while searching through Gundam Seed (and Destiny) model kits trying to see which ones are in MG. Anywho, as I was wondering through this marvelous site of yours, I discovered this guide.
After reading through it, I have a few questions (I am REALLY new to Gundam model kit building, I only have one kit and that is a 1/144 HG Blitz) regarding the painting and details.
I am currently planning to purchase a 1/100 scale Strike Freedom MasterGrade model kit. Here is a picture of someone else's StrikeFreedom that I wish to mimic because it looks SO cool :) http://pds7.egloos.com/pds/200709/30/42/e0064742_46fea6b8a6b4d.jpg
Anywho, regarding the painting:
i) Will any sort of spray paint work on the model kits? If not, then where can I (I live in Ontario, Canada) purchase the correct type(s) of spray paint?
ii) In your guide, you say that you can just spray paint the runners over, clip out the pieces once they're try, sand off the marks, and then spray paint it again. Is that all the amount of paint that I need?
iii) Does the StrikeFreedom MG kit come with the Decals used in the link I posted earlier in this post?
If you know the answers to these questions, and if it wasn't too much trouble, could you kindly email me with the answers? You can contact me at xblitzbladex@gmail.com :)
student
there's something that's been bugging me about inking the model, i know that there are grooves,curves or what ever you call them along the pieces that needs to be inked but what do i use to cover up the the holes that are left behind after stinking 2 pieces together? should i also ink it to cover it up?
@zengar - you can use plastic cement (i use mr. hobby plastic cement) to stick the pieces together. this will meld the two pieces, some plastic will ooze out of the lines..you can then sand it to smoothen the surface - then paint over, coat, etc... do this for parts you are sure you won't be taking apart later. this is what i do to eliminate the seam lines. :)
College Student
What marker is used in this tutorial to do the panel lines? I need one that size, and will rub off with a rubber or cotten wool bud.
So if anyone can give me the name, brand, and size of the one that is used in this tutorial i would be very greatful.
Also, is there a way to give the models a good texture that isn't plastic looking with out spraying. I find it takes too much time to spray, re-spray the nip marks, then do a topcoat.
Thanks
Student
Do you know of a site or place near where I live that I could get some Tamiya spary cans to paint my gundam? I'm trying to use Testors spray to no avail......
Please email me back as soon possible.
Designer, Artist
First of all this is not knocking Danny at all, as he lists this as Modeling for BUSY people (which means taking short cuts), So please don't take it any other way but for people who want to spend more time getting it perfect. Really if you are crazy into modeling, DON'T spray your pieces on the runner!!! Clip them all off, scrape the gates down nice and smooth with a hobby knife, and then paint them. Also a lot of people are saying their paint is coming off easily. Make sure you use PRIMER first over every piece you have. Then give your pieces a nice 1 or 2 coats of paint. Make sure you let your pieces dry over night between each step. There is a "curing" process that happens with paint. It stays a little wet until all the chemical stuff has evaporated. After the paint has set, THEN use markers to do the lines. If you don't wait for the paint to dry, your marker ink will combine with the paint, and you won't be able to remove it well. Also, use water based pens, not oil and definitely not PERMANENT! A really good way to do the lines is to dilute your paint with rubbing alcohol, then use a sharp hobby knife, dip it in the paint, and touch the inside of the lines. The paint should run along the lines, you can help it along with the knife point. Also., if you use sandpaper at any time, make sure it's a very high number, 600 or above, and DON'T push hard! If you push too hard you'll add so many scratches to the finish that you'll have to putty them before you paint. It would be really cool if people read this... but i'm sure i'll see the same questions asked after this is posted.... =P
Danny, what type of putty do you prefer?
Student
Danny, I've been building Gunpla for eight years, and tried etching for the first time today. It was brutal! I thought you were supposed to keep that piece of wax paper (?) between the etching sheet and the part you're etching onto, like that was supposed to help it transfer onto the part but no. I just etched directly onto the wax paper and ruined it. So, I tried it without the wax paper and it worked perfectly. However, after my first perfect etching, I accidentally got a piece of tape stuck to it, and when I took it off - another etching ruined. ARRGH! I eventually got the hang of it, and with the etchings I had left, managed to get it to look okay. If only I'd paid more attention to this guide...
The model was the MG Full Armor ZZ. I'd post pictures but my camera is way too lo-res to show details (you can tell where I messed up, but it looks better than it did with no etchings). I only got six markings down right before I got tired. I still have all the etching sheets saved from all my other MG kits (I have about a dozen) so eventually I'll work on those too. I figure it's a lot easier to do this while building a kit, and not afterwards. The Full Armor ZZ is really complicated to take apart, etc. and that made this take longer than it should have. One day, I'll get a decent camera... and one day, I'll try painting a whole kit, too. Maybe when I have my own house or apartment. Heh.
Hikikomori in the making
http://supermariabros.deviantart.com/
I just started making models and your tutorial is really helpful~ Thanks Danny!
大学生徒
http://ichinichijuu.blogspot.com/
I just bought the Gurren Lagann kit (not sure about the scale, it's the $40 one) and I got a set of paints that are made by Gaianotes specifically for the kit, like the Gundam paints. I suppose now I'm gonna have to invest in an airbrush to paint it with the "specially made" GL paints, as they're in pots, not sprayable. I've wanted to get into more sustained modeling for a while now, so I guess it's good that this is forcing my hand. I priced a cheap compressor/airbrush set with a stepdown converter from Hobby Search (great stock, awful item descriptions), and it'd be like $200 shipped, methinks. Unfortunately for me, an Iwata compressor/airbrush combo is about $200 from a local vendor, so.... I never thought I'd see the day where I'd get something heavy shipped from Japan for the same price without shipping from my local art/hobby store.
hay im jus startin to airbrush n i waz wonderin were did u get dat air compressor?
Good Tutuorial, But I would include safely measure even this is for busy people.
A regular mask will NOT protect you from dangerous chemicals produced by any paint.
Inhaling these chemicals will cause cancer.
So buy a Respirator from your local hardware store and paint outside.
If you want to paint inside, you will definitely want to buy and make a spray booth.
hello there
danny i just want to ask am a beginer in the paint job ,after reading your tips i straight away buy the mr hobby paint, unfortunalty here in malaysia dnt have much choice.they only have leveling thinner is that suit for paint? neway that for now hope i can have ask yur directly.thanks
Employed Specialist
Thanks, I'll practice!
Student
Hi there, I hope Danny will personally reply an email on this one - risingsun900009@hotmail.com
I am now waitng for the semester to re-popen (2 months)so I have done a little bit of research on picking up a hobby. Danny's page appeared randomly and I am amazed with his pieces of Gundam. The next day, I bought my very 1st Gundam- a MG Wing Zero + tamiya spray paints, basic set of gundam market and line inker pen.
I have some questions:
1. What is the use of the basic gundam marker? (as displayed on your pics). Obviously I have tried it on a plastic frame before applying and found out that it does not go well with tamiya spray (unrealistic).
2. Does Top Coat give glossy effect on a gundam? Can I use something cheap like clear aresol spray as substitute?
3. I am aware that PG includes LED but do you think its possible for me to fit in a tiny LED in a MG? (was wondering cuz of the eye part is designed transparent)
Thanks and Cheers
Hi Danny, my name is Blake. I recently got the Perfect Grade Wing Gundam Zero Custom 1/60th scale and I was wondering how you did the wiring for the LED's in the head and chest. The diagram in the instruction manual was so mindboggling that I bypassed that part to finish the gundam. I like to know how you did the original wiring in detail, that way my gundam's eyes and chest can light up. my e-mail address is gunsnipe3795@yahoo.com. Pleas help me out Danny.
thanks
(if anyone who know's how to do the wiring for this kit, please e-mail me.)
Future civil engineer, amateur artist and animator
HI Danny, i have a questions for u. Could i use other coloring materials such as poster color to do the paintng? Will it give similar effect?
College Student
do they sell top coat here in the U.S.? if they do where? and if not what is a good alternative for it? a reply would be great! thanks!
college student
http://otakuartist.wordpress.com/
wow...i am so confuse....wut is a nip? wut is a runner? wut are all thsoe term....aiya!! someone explain everything to me plz!
Got a Master's in Mechatronics; looking for work!
http://www.bsodmike.com
nip marks are the 'scars' left after curring a part from the runner. The runner is the entire 'frame' like thing all the parts come attached to.
Each runner (I think they are called trees too?) usually have a main designation, for example WA1 or X, etc. Then each piece on the runner has its own number from 1 on wards. This way you can easily find the piece needed via the little assembly guide.
Your (un)usual student
...I dun think i can paint it as good as you are,Danny....I don't even have an inking gundam marker....don't know where to find one(actually i have one but it's for the SD Gundam)....man Indonesia sucks!!!
Wanderer
I just started my collection and.. well I bought a lot of figures before and unfortunately I lost them all... so this time I'm gonna try to make this work! this definitely helps me a lot! hehe!
student
danny what markers did you get? i'm wantting to ink ma gundams and i got 2 SDs, RX78 GPO1, Wing zero custom, and heavy arms. I'll get BK-II later so what gundam markers are good for these and are commonly used for all gundams? (pssssssssttttttttt your RX78 GP01 looks uber cool -envies-)
Undergraduate (Civil Engineering)
Very nice detailed. Helped greatly, thanks.
死神 (Part-time)
I'm gonna try some of the tips I learned here tonight with my MG Force Impulse! Danny you rock!
College Student
I know this link is very old but I've never commented on this till now so just wanted to say this is one of the best gundam modeling tutorial ever, I hope danny will start making gunpla again soon and make a tutorial for not so busy people where he could show his best tips! Thanks for the decal tip btw, the tape idea is great!
can anyone and I mean anyone tell me how to fix broken pieces? Let me clarify. When I was changing my zeta 2.0 from waverider back to gundam mode one day, I accidentally ripped part of the wing. Now the wing has a crack. The wing is still held together, but it looks like there is just one large seam mark. I was wondering if gluing the crack with cement glue and constantly sanding the crack would cause the crack mark to be fixed. If anyone knows how to make a crack mark on a gundam look like it has never been there before please give me advice. D:
College Student
You could try first of all to glue the wing back in place, then use modelling putty to cover up the seam (both sides of the wing) then sand it down til it is smoothe. Then you can prime/re-paint/decal it.
Inhabitant
http://colleen_eloisa.livejournal.com
Thanks for this tutorial. It's so insipiring. Goodbye, from the box Bandai mobile suit default stickers. Bwuhahahaha!
Student
http://burningland.deviantart.com/
Can this be applied to a kit that has already been assembled? I have two that I assembled a few months back I want to make them look awesome as they are my first not broken while assembling models. Most of the others i've got have either spoff repairs on the ankle joints or have been reconstructed usinging various glues. *sigh* damn cats....
Student
Hey guyz if you need some answers on Topcoating (no paint but normal clear spray that enhances ur gundam) just add my e-mail (unlimted_bladeworkz@hotmail.com)
Student
Hey guyz if you need some answers on Topcoating (not paint but normal clear spray that enhances ur gundam) just add my e-mail (unlimted_bladeworkz@hotmail.com)
Tech Support/Semi-programmer XD
I must say, this tutorial is really a great one! Thanks Danny for this :D The main trick to building gunpla really is finding your own technique and have a 'go for it' attitude (and also incorporating some of the tricks Danny has done :P)
student
wahat kind of paint are you using im new to this hobby is it a resular spray paint?
Tech Support/Semi-programmer XD
I'm currently using acrylic paints with my Tamiya Spraywork Basic air compressor w/ airbrush. But any kind of paint and any method of painting will do as long as it sticks to the plastic XD
Student
http://musou-enrai.deviantart.com/
Looks like a complicated stuff to me where there's no room for error. And you look awesome without the glasses, Danny! ^-^ I couldn't recognise you without them!
iCafe Manager
Can I ask for advice? How can I get rid of those swirling blemish on some parts without resorting to paint? I'm planning on using only Markers since paint costs more.
photographer, Father, future DIRECTOR
http://www.castlepyros.com
The swirling blemish is part of the poring process and there for is a side defect that really can't be removed unless you paint, some sanding may be able to remove a little but I'm not going to make that claim. ^_^ Good luck and have fun with it!
Is there anyone that knows of any substitute to gundam markers?
I've looked for paint markers but what kinds are able to be cleaned-up/removed by eraser like gundam markers?
And I would love one with a thin point like a gundam marker's.
Supreme Commander of NERV Co.
Thats a long process but I'm so totally up for that. I'll refer to this when I get my firs MG or PG.
Student/ Anime Club Leader at St. Joseph Secondary
http://haruhiist.blogspot.com/
hey thanks a lot Danny! this will surely help when im building my MG or PG's.
Great work with the airbrush skills! ^0^
MS Engineer
Hey Dan! New to the site and loved your Gundam modeling tutorial immensely!!! Currently working on my MG Wing Zero Custom Ver. KA!!
I have a repair tip request regarding my MG Gundam MK II Titans. I attempted to recement a piece inside the head that helps to secure one the ABS ball joint. It's not the entire mount but a tiny piece that broke off from the left mount if that makes any sense. I attempted to recement this piece with Zap a Gap had no success.
I'm sure yourself and fellow gunpla modeling enthusiasts out there have had one or two Gundam kits suffer the same fate. Is there a way to remedy this situation or should I start playing 'taps' for my Titans MK II?
Any insight would be appreciated! Thx!!!
MS Engineer
After several failed attempts to repair the mount using various tried-and-true methods, I finally gave up and filled the head with green putty in desperation. Halfway through the drying process I discarded the ball joint and gently mounted the head to the base of the neck. Satisfied with the adjustments I made I let it dry overnight.
I admit it was a desperate solution but it works perfectly nonetheless and for the sole purpose of rescuing my cherished MG Gundam from the spare parts box. The Titans MkII has returned to his rightful place standing proudly among his 1/100 scale brethren on the bookcase shelf. Don't know how long this will last but like to think I've given this Gundam a few extra years. I just need remind myself not to turn its head :)
student
What kind of paint are you using acrylic, enamel..?
student
I have a force impulse gundam and I have no airbrush can I hand paint it? I have bought a mr color 50 thinner and a gundam color paint for my force impulse. Please help
student
can you please email me at ronald_choa05@yahoo.com thnx about my question
being a teenager// high school// life
Woah Danny you went really indepth on this tutorial... man if I had this much time and experties I would buy more gundam models. Man this is so FTW
Student
Hihi, very appreciative that you have this tutorial. I am practically a noob, so far I only buy and build my models. I do not paint them. Reading so much about how you can make a gundam look so much more real is very inspiring. But I was wondering, is it possible to apply the above techniques to High Grade 1/144 series?
Student
Hey, i have a quick question, since im so noob in the world of gundam making >_< . When you sprayed all of the runners gray, why was this done? Was this to set them so that you could start fresh on paint? And what is top coat used for. Also, For a beginner into gundams, should i just leave the paint that a gundam comes with, and then slowly start to experiment in custom painting? Sorry for so many questions >_<. Thanks!!! and great job.
-Kevin
Student
http://mrlonelyheart.wordpress.com/
Looks like you get to keep your spleen eh, danny? ^^
Design Student. Occasional Retailor of Delicious Toubed Meats.
This is probably the most helpful thing I've ever read on the internet ever. ^_^
I had no idea you could use an eraser to clean up ink marks. Thanks Danny!
student
Do you have any videos?
hey thanks for the great tutorial! by the way,
in image #481 what did u spray? was it flat top coat directly or was it matte color spray?
Student
Hi, Danny I'm new at gundam building so I read about your tutorial and i have questions for u please help me thx.
1.what is the top coat for?
2.Do you spray the runner with a specific colour or do you follow the colour of the runner and do I have to spray something else before of after that?
3.Is air brush necessary or using the spray paint is enough without shadowing? because i saw a video in youtube which they used air brush to spray the whole gundam instead of spray paint.
4.when do i use the top coat? after i colour spray it?
thx again
Got a Master's in Mechatronics; looking for work!
http://www.bsodmike.com
Panel lines - I hate doing panel lines. Had a real tough time finishing my RX-78; no where close to how I wanted the panel lines to look really.
Right, the pens I have are GM01 and GM02, quite a few of them. These are oil based, and I do want to use them as they are very fine tipped.
Could someone tell me if this is how I should set about panelizing:
1. Paint runners, as per Danny's guide. Does one need to let it dry for 24 hours?
2. Coat with Mr. Topcoat "GLOSSY"
3. Draw in panel lines with oil based markers. Glossy top-coat should make it easier to wipe away excess?
4. Coat with Mr. Topcoat Flat Matt.
Thanks for your input!
student
HI I've just bought a destiny gundam full burst and i want to paint it.Can you teach me how to colour it?
Student
Hey, just wondering even after snipping, do you still end up with those grooves when u snap the pieces together? If so do you use a putty, then sand it down and repaint again over top?
Very helpful article! I'm trying to paint my gunpla with acrylic paints using a brush, but I'm having problems with joints scraping paint off when moved. Anyone have any suggestions?
Software Consultant
http://kamlau.com
I still haven't found a better tutorial than this one. This is definitely one of the posts that drew me to this site back in the days. And yet today I am still enjoying reading it. Thank you Danny!
Student
http://www.optimisticpenguin.com/
great tutorial, I think I got a good plan of action now for when I do my first Gundam, am getting a wing gundam zero waltz, gunna paint it pearl white with just a few silver detailing. :D
hey ken
im from malaysia to do you went to gundam fare at sungai wang?
hopw we can share gundam knowlegde
cani have yur email
Corporate Zombie
Hey I was reading this and looking at the comments and saw that you are from Roanoke. I just moved to Blacksburg and I was wondering where you buy gundam models from. I haven't had any luck looking in Blacksburg or Christiansburg and I'm wondering if you order them online or go in town?
Thanks if you can get back to me.
Hi Danny,
I need to seek your advise on gundam modelling. Can you pls drop me a note at geofferyang@hotmail.com ? I'll consult you then. Appreciate it. Thanks.