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English/英語  Fri 07/07 21:25 JST
最近のはやり(?!)は無塗装でガンダムを仕上げる。サンドペーパーで表面のつやを消し、墨入れ&ガンダム ウェザリング マーカーで汚れをいれ、トップコートで仕上げる。やりたいけど、勇気がそんなにない方はHCM PRO シリーズでやってみてもいいかもしれない。
スキャンは電撃ホビーから。
もう一つ。ギャンはガンダムじゃないのは分かっていますが、この記事のタイトルに「ガンダム」を入れた方が検索エンジンに引っかかる。ところで現在ぐーぐるにインデックスされているページ数は。。。
 
 
 
 
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JJ in Brazil
Very interesting!!!

I´ll try out!
(ID #37944) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Mecha in Toronto
hmm...its bout time this "technique" got sum recognition...

its how the less fortunate model-ers...like myself ^.^...make do with out all the expensive airbrushes...pin striping handling...or the layers of top coat =P.....
(ID #37945) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Stones in NY
that pretty funny, I just started doing that technique on my MG GP01fb.  I haven't painted any of my models yet and I'm just trying to improve my panel lines for now.  So sand to remove stray ink, then I just started to sand everything with 400 grit to make it look even
(ID #37946) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
ArC
I thought Max Watanabe had been experimenting with a (mostly) paintless method for years now.  For non MG models, IIRC, it matters all the more to glue well and sand well to hide the parts seams.  Then, the modeller airbrushes translucent colours (just for weathering) over the model, and then a top coat to kill the plastic gloss.  Most of the colour therefore comes from the plastic itself, as with the Gyan here.
(ID #37947) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Huk in SG
Not really knew but been doing that cos I am a cheapskate that wanted to stinge on paint and spend as little as possible.

Other stuff I ve tried including mud, water color, crayons, pastel colors, industrial paints, basically all those colors I can get my hands on that are lefrovers from varuous uses. Results lotsa kits that ended up as spare parts or into the dump. Anyway 1/144 scale kits on discounts are good experiment subjects.



(ID #37948) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Li in MA
I'm too much of a pussy to try that.
(ID #37950) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
john p in Arakis
Ey danny
We gonna see you post an HCM mod like that soon? heheh  make a tuitorial for us afterwards.

PS.  when u take your pics of the gundams u use a flash? or just a tripod on natural light? 
(ID #37952) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
maki in 渋谷
これ、結構テクニック必要な気がする・・・。
でもcoolだね。
(ID #37953) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
Well isnt this an intriguing idea...some things are just so simple its amazing how one doesnt think of them earlier.

I might try this in the future, but I really need to learn how to paint my models too ^_^
(ID #37955) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
adrian lawless in doncaster,england
looks kinda cool,i've tried it myself a few years ago when i couldn't paint very well.

btw.i've recently bought a fake bandai kit by mistake and wondered if you would like to show the photo's so other people can be made aware of what a fake kit looks like.cheers
(ID #37957) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Tu in South Africa
oooh, now i know why i've been saving up my MG freedom... this feels perfect, can we get a detailed description for us poor buggers with no access to dengeki...? (no, really, african soils...)
(ID #37958) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Must try this out too.
(ID #37959) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Mike in Chicago
Man, NOW THIS IS THE COOL THING?!?!? ive been a "no painter" since ive started... no1 gave me props... and to think i was gonna move over to the air brush side
(ID #37961) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
UltraSoul in Office.Toronto
Great technique for those of us that are poor and not good with paint. Gotta try this on my Strike Noir!

.. I suspect it won't work on Akatsuki or  Hyaku Shiki tho :(
(ID #37962) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Gunsmith in bham uk
im guessing you want a 1600grit wet and dry as well as a 2500 rubbing compount for that as well as lot of patience
(ID #37964) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Huk in SG
Watanabe's weathering technique using COPIC markers

http://www.maxfactory.jp/copic_lesson_top.htm

Basically you can use any markers for that AS LONG AS you can
1) find the appropriate solvent
2) the solvent aka the base of the ink wouldnt melt the plastic

One thing good abt COPIC markers is their range of colors and the broad tip/fine tip plus super fine tip.
(ID #37966) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
[ Ash ] in Singapore
Wow; no paint and it looks as if it was Spray painted then assembled... Gotta try this out with my Saviour Gundam when I get it. 

But do Gundam markers actually *DO* that worn out look Danny>? 0_0;
(ID #37970) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
anthonyhins in malaysia(penang)
the most MG i like........
(ID #37971) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
strike in sepna
I think bandai are not bothered to make new models. They haven't even made a MG 1/100 GP01 gundam ver.2, which is my fav gundam.
My opinion is that they should make ver.2 for all the gundam series again because this will, i mean will, attract all gundam fans out there to buy all the new ones, this will result in bandai having a lot more money and profit.
Please Danny, give me your opinion on my statement about gundam, :).
(ID #37972) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
strike in sepna
Also, I have the RX-178 gundam ver.2, I was wondering if Bandai will get off their lazy asses and make a flying armour for mark 2.
Please tell me if you find out because I am using Zeta gundam as the flying armor and does not look good.
(ID #37973) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
alafista in Singapore
Even though there is no airbrushing ... its seems to me that this requires much more skills 
(ID #37975) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Hayden Yuy in London. UK
this doesnt really do much for me :( to me this is a really of a bland design. theres nothing appealing about this mech that would make me want to go out & perchase it :( :( being honest hurts.....
(ID #37978) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Stones in NY
now that i've done this on a few pieces on my MG GP01fb, i gotta say i like the way it looks.  my gluing isn't perfect so some of my ink lines are wavy, but the surfaces look great overall.  it is tedious and sometime difficult to reach places, but i needed to start doing more advanced stuff with my models
(ID #37980) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
reversed edge in Malabon, Philippines
this technique is usually done by bandai on their store displays
(ID #38037) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Cram Complex in Toronto, Ontario Canada
Well...i've seen this kind of modelling or "advanced" technique used long ago on a MG dom in hobby japan...so i'm pretty sure this is not new news but most likely the "fad" is just starting now after years of neglect by modellers LOL
(ID #38041) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Cram Complex in Toronto, Ontario Canada
one more thing...i forgot...i think this is only applicable to some grades of mechs...like MG's and HGUC's and select non-grade kits coz they all hide the seam lines...but if a 1/100 strike is done this way...i'd be amazed
(ID #38042) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Xlno in singapore
can anyone write down the whole process on how to make it? maybe if there is any current tutorial abt it u can intro to me. thx guys.
(ID #38070) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
ArC
Xlno, see Huk's link.  It's so simple: First Mr Super Clear (matte), then Copic marker (warm grey #W5), then colourless marker (cleaned every so often on a tissue as you go along) to do the blending.

Yeah, doing this on older models where the parts seams are visible is probably not going to work.  I still think it's theoretically possible with appropriate glue and sanding, but then you haven't saved much time or energy and you'd probably be better off completely hiding the seams with primer & paint.
(ID #38077) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Alex Stamen in indonesia
Eh? sandpaper instead of paint? what a brilliant idea. Will give it a shot later
(ID #38079) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Ki Moon in Seattle, WA
I wouldnt mind getting Justice if it looked like this one. This one kicks ass
http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/gallery/jusm/jusm.htm
(ID #38095) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
strike in Sepna- ninth planet after plut...
Bandai isn't going to get off their asses are they? They are not creating enough new gundams to satify gundam fans, they should make new models of all POPULAR gundam series, not the crappy ones like victory gundam and etc.
I would love to see Bandai make a MG 1/100 THE-O from the z gundam series.
Please give me your opinion(s) to me, Danny.:)
 
(ID #38111) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
strike in Sepna- ninth planet after plut...
Ki Moon, this person seems to have used the new z gundam and gundam mk2 parts, he or she probably just modified it.
(ID #38112) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Derringer in Orange, CA
This doesn't work too well on older models because the seams will still be pretty visible unless you put something like Mr. Surfacer on to cover it up first.  

However, I have done this before because I was too lazy to paint white.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/whalegamer2000/Shenlong3.jpg
(ID #38242) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Derringer in Orange, CA
Err, crap, the URL got cut off

i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/whalegamer2000/Shenlong3.jpg

Bleh, copy and paste it if some of it is cutt off.
(ID #38243) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Cram Complex in Toronto, Ontario Canada
hmm...it seems I have been proven wrong once again...this time by myself...IT is POSSIBLE to recreat something like this EVEN with OLDER kits...all you need is just ALOT of patience...some sandpaper, super glue, logical mind (this how to get the seamlines out w/o paint and primer), artist oil paint, odorless mineral spirits, oil paint drying agent, 2 nylon brushes, ALOT of TISSUE, several cups of coffee and several packs of smokes...LOL.

No seriously...remove the smoke and coffee...it'll work wonders...I'm doing it with a different approach not using any markers cept for the panel lines.

I got the idea somewhere else...someone who's been quite the hosehold name in model-kit building and resin kit building.

http://www.codyscoop.com

i've been a fan of cody ever since i started modelling :D

as for danny...he has a fresh outlook on how to build kits and the best damn stormtrooper costume i've ever seen >_<

anyway look around cody's page...you'll learn alot...i did :P

p.s. i'll be posting a tutorial on my livejournal XD hopefully when i finish it...w/c isn't that long :P
(ID #38395) Posted on 2007/01/02 01:11
Trent in Minnesota
Otaku
登録日: 2007/02/10 15:01
I love stuff like this! There is only one model store close to me, and they have hardly any Gundams...I've done most of the ones they have so i've started doing things like this and experimenting with how I painted them...I like spraying everything with silver, then clear colors over them...It gives it a wonderful look! :D
(ID #45383) Posted on 2007/03/14 00:23
moncikoma in jakarta, Indonesia
Designer graphic
登録日: 2007/08/03 04:57
i will try this tech with my PG STRIKE..
scary, but its challangeing
(ID #53611) Posted on 2007/08/06 14:05
JJ in Brazil
Very interesting!!!

I´ll try out!
(ID #79948) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Mecha in Toronto
hmm...its bout time this "technique" got sum recognition...

its how the less fortunate model-ers...like myself ^.^...make do with out all the expensive airbrushes...pin striping handling...or the layers of top coat =P.....
(ID #79949) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Stones in NY
that pretty funny, I just started doing that technique on my MG GP01fb.  I haven't painted any of my models yet and I'm just trying to improve my panel lines for now.  So sand to remove stray ink, then I just started to sand everything with 400 grit to make it look even
(ID #79950) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
ArC
I thought Max Watanabe had been experimenting with a (mostly) paintless method for years now.  For non MG models, IIRC, it matters all the more to glue well and sand well to hide the parts seams.  Then, the modeller airbrushes translucent colours (just for weathering) over the model, and then a top coat to kill the plastic gloss.  Most of the colour therefore comes from the plastic itself, as with the Gyan here.
(ID #79951) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Huk in SG
Not really knew but been doing that cos I am a cheapskate that wanted to stinge on paint and spend as little as possible.

Other stuff I ve tried including mud, water color, crayons, pastel colors, industrial paints, basically all those colors I can get my hands on that are lefrovers from varuous uses. Results lotsa kits that ended up as spare parts or into the dump. Anyway 1/144 scale kits on discounts are good experiment subjects.



(ID #79952) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Li in MA
I'm too much of a pussy to try that.
(ID #79954) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
john p in Arakis
Ey danny
We gonna see you post an HCM mod like that soon? heheh  make a tuitorial for us afterwards.

PS.  when u take your pics of the gundams u use a flash? or just a tripod on natural light? 
(ID #79956) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
maki in 渋谷
これ、結構テクニック必要な気がする・・・。
でもcoolだね。
(ID #79957) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
Well isnt this an intriguing idea...some things are just so simple its amazing how one doesnt think of them earlier.

I might try this in the future, but I really need to learn how to paint my models too ^_^
(ID #79959) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
adrian lawless in doncaster,england
looks kinda cool,i've tried it myself a few years ago when i couldn't paint very well.

btw.i've recently bought a fake bandai kit by mistake and wondered if you would like to show the photo's so other people can be made aware of what a fake kit looks like.cheers
(ID #79961) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Tu in South Africa
oooh, now i know why i've been saving up my MG freedom... this feels perfect, can we get a detailed description for us poor buggers with no access to dengeki...? (no, really, african soils...)
(ID #79962) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Must try this out too.
(ID #79963) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Mike in Chicago
Man, NOW THIS IS THE COOL THING?!?!? ive been a "no painter" since ive started... no1 gave me props... and to think i was gonna move over to the air brush side
(ID #79965) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
UltraSoul in Office.Toronto
Great technique for those of us that are poor and not good with paint. Gotta try this on my Strike Noir!

.. I suspect it won't work on Akatsuki or  Hyaku Shiki tho :(
(ID #79966) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Gunsmith in bham uk
im guessing you want a 1600grit wet and dry as well as a 2500 rubbing compount for that as well as lot of patience
(ID #79968) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Huk in SG
Watanabe's weathering technique using COPIC markers

http://www.maxfactory.jp/copic_lesson_top.htm

Basically you can use any markers for that AS LONG AS you can
1) find the appropriate solvent
2) the solvent aka the base of the ink wouldnt melt the plastic

One thing good abt COPIC markers is their range of colors and the broad tip/fine tip plus super fine tip.
(ID #79970) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
[ Ash ] in Singapore
Wow; no paint and it looks as if it was Spray painted then assembled... Gotta try this out with my Saviour Gundam when I get it. 

But do Gundam markers actually *DO* that worn out look Danny>? 0_0;
(ID #79974) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
anthonyhins in malaysia(penang)
the most MG i like........
(ID #79975) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
strike in sepna
I think bandai are not bothered to make new models. They haven't even made a MG 1/100 GP01 gundam ver.2, which is my fav gundam.
My opinion is that they should make ver.2 for all the gundam series again because this will, i mean will, attract all gundam fans out there to buy all the new ones, this will result in bandai having a lot more money and profit.
Please Danny, give me your opinion on my statement about gundam, :).
(ID #79976) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
strike in sepna
Also, I have the RX-178 gundam ver.2, I was wondering if Bandai will get off their lazy asses and make a flying armour for mark 2.
Please tell me if you find out because I am using Zeta gundam as the flying armor and does not look good.
(ID #79977) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
alafista in Singapore
Even though there is no airbrushing ... its seems to me that this requires much more skills 
(ID #79979) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Hayden Yuy in London. UK
this doesnt really do much for me :( to me this is a really of a bland design. theres nothing appealing about this mech that would make me want to go out & perchase it :( :( being honest hurts.....
(ID #79982) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Stones in NY
now that i've done this on a few pieces on my MG GP01fb, i gotta say i like the way it looks.  my gluing isn't perfect so some of my ink lines are wavy, but the surfaces look great overall.  it is tedious and sometime difficult to reach places, but i needed to start doing more advanced stuff with my models
(ID #79984) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
reversed edge in Malabon, Philippines
this technique is usually done by bandai on their store displays
(ID #80041) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Cram Complex in Toronto, Ontario Canada
Well...i've seen this kind of modelling or "advanced" technique used long ago on a MG dom in hobby japan...so i'm pretty sure this is not new news but most likely the "fad" is just starting now after years of neglect by modellers LOL
(ID #80045) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Cram Complex in Toronto, Ontario Canada
one more thing...i forgot...i think this is only applicable to some grades of mechs...like MG's and HGUC's and select non-grade kits coz they all hide the seam lines...but if a 1/100 strike is done this way...i'd be amazed
(ID #80046) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Xlno in singapore
can anyone write down the whole process on how to make it? maybe if there is any current tutorial abt it u can intro to me. thx guys.
(ID #80074) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
ArC
Xlno, see Huk's link.  It's so simple: First Mr Super Clear (matte), then Copic marker (warm grey #W5), then colourless marker (cleaned every so often on a tissue as you go along) to do the blending.

Yeah, doing this on older models where the parts seams are visible is probably not going to work.  I still think it's theoretically possible with appropriate glue and sanding, but then you haven't saved much time or energy and you'd probably be better off completely hiding the seams with primer & paint.
(ID #80081) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Alex Stamen in indonesia
Eh? sandpaper instead of paint? what a brilliant idea. Will give it a shot later
(ID #80083) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Ki Moon in Seattle, WA
I wouldnt mind getting Justice if it looked like this one. This one kicks ass
http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/gallery/jusm/jusm.htm
(ID #80099) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
strike in Sepna- ninth planet after plut...
Bandai isn't going to get off their asses are they? They are not creating enough new gundams to satify gundam fans, they should make new models of all POPULAR gundam series, not the crappy ones like victory gundam and etc.
I would love to see Bandai make a MG 1/100 THE-O from the z gundam series.
Please give me your opinion(s) to me, Danny.:)
 
(ID #80115) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
strike in Sepna- ninth planet after plut...
Ki Moon, this person seems to have used the new z gundam and gundam mk2 parts, he or she probably just modified it.
(ID #80116) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Derringer in Orange, CA
This doesn't work too well on older models because the seams will still be pretty visible unless you put something like Mr. Surfacer on to cover it up first.  

However, I have done this before because I was too lazy to paint white.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/whalegamer2000/Shenlong3.jpg
(ID #80246) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Derringer in Orange, CA
Err, crap, the URL got cut off

i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/whalegamer2000/Shenlong3.jpg

Bleh, copy and paste it if some of it is cutt off.
(ID #80247) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
Cram Complex in Toronto, Ontario Canada
hmm...it seems I have been proven wrong once again...this time by myself...IT is POSSIBLE to recreat something like this EVEN with OLDER kits...all you need is just ALOT of patience...some sandpaper, super glue, logical mind (this how to get the seamlines out w/o paint and primer), artist oil paint, odorless mineral spirits, oil paint drying agent, 2 nylon brushes, ALOT of TISSUE, several cups of coffee and several packs of smokes...LOL.

No seriously...remove the smoke and coffee...it'll work wonders...I'm doing it with a different approach not using any markers cept for the panel lines.

I got the idea somewhere else...someone who's been quite the hosehold name in model-kit building and resin kit building.

http://www.codyscoop.com

i've been a fan of cody ever since i started modelling :D

as for danny...he has a fresh outlook on how to build kits and the best damn stormtrooper costume i've ever seen >_<

anyway look around cody's page...you'll learn alot...i did :P

p.s. i'll be posting a tutorial on my livejournal XD hopefully when i finish it...w/c isn't that long :P
(ID #80399) Posted on 1999/11/30 14:00
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