Gundam Modeling Tutorial
(
175)
Tue 2005/10/18 14:54
Since yesterdays post, I have had some death threats threatening that I would have my spleen ripped out and my brain urinated on if I didn't release the "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People" *now* - so here it is. As usual, I have used the Gallery template to hold the tutorial and the modified the blogg template which pulls everything from the Galleries automatically which is why you see the "Taken with IXY DIGITAL 400. The above image is archived in the Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People gallery. (Click to enlarge)" everywhere - just ignore it while I think of what the UI should look like.
I will be adding more stuff as I build more Gundams - keep those mince pies peeled.
This guide is not meant to show you how to build a model step by step but should provide enough tips to make some groovesome stuff.
You can also go directly to the galleries to see this tutorial too.
I will be adding more stuff as I build more Gundams - keep those mince pies peeled.
This guide is not meant to show you how to build a model step by step but should provide enough tips to make some groovesome stuff.
You can also go directly to the galleries to see this tutorial too.
This is an etching decal which comes with some Gundam kits. For some extremely annoying reason, Bandai dont include etching decals with all of their kits and the only reason I can think of why they do this is to cut costs - those bastards.
Anyway, if you dont want to spoil your Gundam with the normal stickers - you can always try to get hold of some third party etching decals.
Anyway, here is a shot of some decals which came with the recent One Year War Gundam. Cut out the bit that you want to etch with a scalpel before proceeding.
Anyway, if you dont want to spoil your Gundam with the normal stickers - you can always try to get hold of some third party etching decals.
Anyway, here is a shot of some decals which came with the recent One Year War Gundam. Cut out the bit that you want to etch with a scalpel before proceeding.
Then use some of that clear scotch tape to hold the decal in place.
Next off is to use a hard object (the back of the scalpel is ideal) and then etch away. As you etch, you will notice the decal coming away from the plastic sheet. Be-careful not to move the decal or you will end up with a mess and start to cry. Also, try to etch from one side of the decal to the other otherwise you may get air bubbles under the decal (and cry).
Once you think you have etched the decal on to the piece in question, carefully and slowly peel away the plastic sheet - sometimes the decal has not been etched on properly - in which case you can slowly put back the plastic sheet in the original position and re-etch.
This is the decal in place - as you can see I didn't get the air bubbles out. After crying for 10 seconds, I got a cotton bud to push out the bubbles. Whether its a decal or a sticker, you can use the scalpel to slice an air bubble just a bit before wiping the decal/sticker down.
"Sumi ire" is the Japanese word used to describe where you use either a special marker or paint to paint along grooves in the kit. These grooves are usually maintenance hatches or where pieces of metal join etc. I call it Inking but I am not sure if that is the right term but I will use it anyway.
This is the back of Gundams head un-inked. As you can see it looks quite sad so inking is the order of the day...
This is the back of Gundams head un-inked. As you can see it looks quite sad so inking is the order of the day...
Go to your nearest modeling store and grab yourself some Gundam markers (and don't forget to pay for them). Then draw along the grooves on the head. If you are inking on a white surface, grey, purple or brown is recommended as the color to use. Do this when you are at home and not on the train as you will have ink going over the edges - you will probably get strange looks and maybe even arrested for being a nuisance in public.
Now this may not be common knowledge, but you can use a pencil rubber to clean up after inking. I didn't know this when I started modeling and used thinner to rub out excess ink which was bad because I ended up melting a few parts by laying on too much thinner.
You can also use fine sandpaper to remove any offensive overflowing ink too.
This is the back of Gundams head after inking - and cool does it look too.
This is the PG GP01 just after completion - as you can see it is un-inked. I didn't ink at the time as I was worried that I was not going to do a good job and spoil it (after all - they are expensive and I spent a few days making it).
After looking at other people models however, I realized the importance of inking and that you have to use the "just do it" attitude - if you screw up then use a rubber or sand paper and before you know it you will have a mean looking Gundam - check the next slide...
After looking at other people models however, I realized the importance of inking and that you have to use the "just do it" attitude - if you screw up then use a rubber or sand paper and before you know it you will have a mean looking Gundam - check the next slide...
This is the PG GP-01 after inking - as you can see it looks very different to the pre-inked state and closer to how it looked like in the series.
I actually did not ink this model until a year after I completed it!
I actually did not ink this model until a year after I completed it!
So this is the Gundam tutorial for *busy people* - you can tell by the way I spray the pieces. The plastic frame which holds the pieces is called the Runner - the bit of the runner which attaches directly to the piece is called the Gate.
What many people do is cut out all the pieces, sand down, go over with primer, sand down again and then paint - but that would mean that I would need a million years just to complete one model!
Not having a million years to spare, what I do is use a method which some people may call the "darn-right-lazy" method which is to spray the whole runner.
What I do then is to cut out the pieces as I build the model and then spray over any visible nip (snip?) marks. Nip marks are the marks left over in the piece after nipping out from the runner.
What many people do is cut out all the pieces, sand down, go over with primer, sand down again and then paint - but that would mean that I would need a million years just to complete one model!
Not having a million years to spare, what I do is use a method which some people may call the "darn-right-lazy" method which is to spray the whole runner.
What I do then is to cut out the pieces as I build the model and then spray over any visible nip (snip?) marks. Nip marks are the marks left over in the piece after nipping out from the runner.
What I do is spray directly onto the Runner without any primer. This is a Runner out of the box. Constructing a Gundam model without painting means that you will end up with an icky wimpy Gundam who would have a tough time frightening off a house mite.
This is the same Runner after spraying. As you can see the texture is totally different.
Here are some Runners hanging out to dry outside. Hanging Runners outside to dry is good because you wont choke and die from the fumes from the paint as you might if you hanged the Runners out to dry indoors. But, you will get dust falling on the Runners.
What a lot of professionals do is to do the spraying indoors and build a vacuum booth which sucks out the fumes and smell.
Being the "Gundam modeling tutorial for busy people" I just dont have time for all that. If dust does settle down on the Runners while the paint dries - I just smooth down the pieces with fine sand paper.
What a lot of professionals do is to do the spraying indoors and build a vacuum booth which sucks out the fumes and smell.
Being the "Gundam modeling tutorial for busy people" I just dont have time for all that. If dust does settle down on the Runners while the paint dries - I just smooth down the pieces with fine sand paper.
More Runners hanging out to dry outside. The Runners dry very quickly and you can leave them there for about 20 mins.
This is me inking the wings on the Aile Striker. This Runner has been given its red coat of spray and now I am doing the inking with the usual Gundam markers.
It really depends on the type of piece that you are inking but I find that I can ink long pieces easier when they are still attached to the runner.
After nipping out the pieces, the nip marks will be visible - so what I do is to spray over whilst being careful not to spray over the grooves which I have spent the last hour inking. If you do spray over the inking - just re-ink.
It really depends on the type of piece that you are inking but I find that I can ink long pieces easier when they are still attached to the runner.
After nipping out the pieces, the nip marks will be visible - so what I do is to spray over whilst being careful not to spray over the grooves which I have spent the last hour inking. If you do spray over the inking - just re-ink.
This is Gundam MkII after completion. Notice the ton of plastic left over. Bandai announced this year that they are looking at ways of cutting costs of making the Gundam kits which gave me a fright but then they said they want to concentrate on the Runners - all the plastic which gets thrown away. I say that they should just charge more and make better quality Gundam kits instead.
The smaller kits such as the Master Grade series are much cheaper than the PG series and this is probably why there are less parts which are colored. The vulcan cannons on the side of Gundams head for example in this kit are not separate pieces which means you have to paint them.
get yourself a fine brush to do the painting.
get yourself a fine brush to do the painting.
It really depends on the size of the kit but a can of spray like this one will be enough for one Master Grade kit. If you are making a Perfect grade then you probably need two cans (again depends on the size of the pieces etc).
After spraying, turn the can upside down and spray for a split second - this prevents the nozzle from clogging up. A can of spray typically costs about 500 yen (5 USD).
After spraying, turn the can upside down and spray for a split second - this prevents the nozzle from clogging up. A can of spray typically costs about 500 yen (5 USD).
This is my airbrush filled with just enough ink for the shadowing that I am going to do on my MG Gundam. Shadowing is the technique where one sprays the edges of the pieces to make the whole model stand out. Shadowing is different from weathering where weathering is done to make the model look like its had its butt kicked 20 times.
You should be able to see that the ink is very thin - I use about 70% thinner and the rest paint. What I do is to mix a bottle of paint and thinner prior to spraying - the bottle of paint usually lasts me a long time - the paint in this picture was mixed over a year ago.
You should be able to see that the ink is very thin - I use about 70% thinner and the rest paint. What I do is to mix a bottle of paint and thinner prior to spraying - the bottle of paint usually lasts me a long time - the paint in this picture was mixed over a year ago.
Do have a piece of paper handy - use something like A4 paper and not toilet paper - especially not used toilet paper - don't want yer Gundam to be smelly and brown. Regardless of the colors of the pieces, the white paper will help you adjust the airbrush which determines the amount of ink flow.
Before you spray any piece, make sure you spray *away* from the piece because the head of the airbrush will accumulate ink whenever you leave it for a period of time. If you sprayed directly on to the piece, the airbrush will splutter and your lovely Gundam piece will look like its been dipped in diarrhea (minus the spinach and corn).
Before you spray any piece, make sure you spray *away* from the piece because the head of the airbrush will accumulate ink whenever you leave it for a period of time. If you sprayed directly on to the piece, the airbrush will splutter and your lovely Gundam piece will look like its been dipped in diarrhea (minus the spinach and corn).
Make sure you have a bag of disposable gloves handy otherwise you will have ink in your ears - for those who pick your ears often.
This is me applying some shadowing. When using the airbrush, be very careful how much you apply - you could be spraying away thinking that there is not enough shadow - then you hold the piece up to the light and start to cry realizing that you have applied too much. If you have applied too much shadow then you are screwed because the work to remove the shadowing is a pain in the armpits.
You will have to re-spray the piece in question, do the inking again and if you had some etching decals you would have to remove that too. At this moment in time, you may want to consider getting a nearby friend to kick you or decide that you want a battle damaged Gundam...
This is me applying some shadowing. When using the airbrush, be very careful how much you apply - you could be spraying away thinking that there is not enough shadow - then you hold the piece up to the light and start to cry realizing that you have applied too much. If you have applied too much shadow then you are screwed because the work to remove the shadowing is a pain in the armpits.
You will have to re-spray the piece in question, do the inking again and if you had some etching decals you would have to remove that too. At this moment in time, you may want to consider getting a nearby friend to kick you or decide that you want a battle damaged Gundam...
If all you have about you is spray cans but need some paint to paint some Vulcan cannons (for example), then do what you can see in the photo. Take an empty pot and spray into it. I thought that the spray would go everywhere but the spray can behaves quite well.
Here is a small collection of the paints that I use. Here you can see Gundam Color Spray (which is toxic), Mr Color and Tamiya Color.
The small pots are also Tamiya color and are used for small details on the models.
On the right you can see Top Coat. There are two types of Top Coat - one is gloss and the other matt. I prefer all my models to be matt. Even if I cant get hold of some matt paint (the red Gundam Color paint in this photo is gloss), when I use Top Coat to spray over gloss, the gloss will turn to matt. Top coat helps keep the paint n stickers from peeling away from the model but is not weather or drop-from-third-floor-balcony proof. if you like to pose your Gundam a lot, you will find that paint does wear off after a while even if you have used Top Coat.
At the bottom of the picture you can see some Gundam Markers. The fat markers are used for large grooves like the ones in PG GP01's legs and the thin markers for the other thin stuff.
Now here is a word of advice, if you need some grey - make sure you get a few pens and not just one. As you ink your Gundam, the nibs become blunt and depending on the piece you ink, the nib may even split apart. You can still use these split nibs for large grooves but if you try to use them on a thin groove then you will end up with a mess.
The small pots are also Tamiya color and are used for small details on the models.
On the right you can see Top Coat. There are two types of Top Coat - one is gloss and the other matt. I prefer all my models to be matt. Even if I cant get hold of some matt paint (the red Gundam Color paint in this photo is gloss), when I use Top Coat to spray over gloss, the gloss will turn to matt. Top coat helps keep the paint n stickers from peeling away from the model but is not weather or drop-from-third-floor-balcony proof. if you like to pose your Gundam a lot, you will find that paint does wear off after a while even if you have used Top Coat.
At the bottom of the picture you can see some Gundam Markers. The fat markers are used for large grooves like the ones in PG GP01's legs and the thin markers for the other thin stuff.
Now here is a word of advice, if you need some grey - make sure you get a few pens and not just one. As you ink your Gundam, the nibs become blunt and depending on the piece you ink, the nib may even split apart. You can still use these split nibs for large grooves but if you try to use them on a thin groove then you will end up with a mess.
I use Mr Hobbys 250 thin type thinner - the jars on the right are used to make ink for shadowing. Make sure you have a droplet - pouring the thinner around just does not work without it.
Just comparing the size between an MG Guncannon and a PG GP-01. Up until the One Year War MG Gundam that came out this year - most of the MG series only had a limited amount of mobility - the new MGs that are coming out now however are close to Perfect Grade specs which means that you can pose your MG to do the going-for-a-crap-in-the-woods pose with ease.
As you can see however, the MG models are much smaller than the PG models.
As you can see however, the MG models are much smaller than the PG models.
Mr Hobby Mini Compressor. I first started of modeling by using air canisters but after a few puffs, the canisters freeze over causing air pressure to destabilize which then causes your air brush to spit rather than blow. I tried the two canister trick but I would still have to wait for the other can to cool down. So I decided to splash out about 15,000 yen (cant remember) on this compressor. As long as I don't intend on attempting to make life size Gundams then this will be (and has been) quite adequate for now.
The compressor comes with wobbly rubber feet so it does not rumble and the sound level is about the same as a mid range fart.
After construction, decal and inking is complete, its time to take everything apart to spray over the nip marks.
Some tools of the trade. The nipper cost about 700 yen. You cant use any old nipper - modeling nippers have one flat edge which is essential otherwise you will have the Gates sticking out the pieces.
From left to right - a comparison bewteen un-inked, inked and after-cleaning-up-the-inking.
I hope you can see whats going on here - pieces like armor by default can be removed from the frame underneath - but sometimes these snap fit pieces have such long 'male-parts' (I have no idea what these bits are called) that once put together, you will have a hard time pulling the pieces apart - sometimes breaking something in the process. What you should do then is to snip these 'male parts' (ouch) at an angle like the one in the photo - this makes it easier to pull apart the snap fit parts.
I take no responsibility for those who get confused as to which 'male parts' people end up snipping.
I take no responsibility for those who get confused as to which 'male parts' people end up snipping.
MG Gundam in the process of being...born? This MG took about 3-4 hours to put together.
PG Strike Gundam ready for its dose of Top Coat. The trick (trick?) here is to take a deep breath and spray all over and then run away otherwise you may die from the toxic fumes.
Be sure to remove armor when spraying as you want Top Coat reaching and covering the frame underneath - otherwise you will have paint coming off the under frame and rubbing off on your armor.
Be sure to remove armor when spraying as you want Top Coat reaching and covering the frame underneath - otherwise you will have paint coming off the under frame and rubbing off on your armor.
Before I put my kits together, I spray the whole Runner. After putting the pieces together, I take everything apart and separate them into their different colors. What I do now is then to spray over any visible nip marks - nip marks - especially on weapons - stick out like a half severed thumb so be sure to go over with a lick of paint.
Notice that I have left the legs, arms and torso in one piece - I dont bother to spray over nip marks which are not visible - and besides, if I did, this "Gundam modeling tutorial for busy people" would not be here.
Notice that I have left the legs, arms and torso in one piece - I dont bother to spray over nip marks which are not visible - and besides, if I did, this "Gundam modeling tutorial for busy people" would not be here.
PG Strike Gundam ready for a going over with a second coat of spray to cover up any visible nip marks.
Getting ready for a bout of Gundam making.
Make sure you have tons of newspaper, disposable gloves and most importantly a mask. Even with a mask on however, you are going to end up inhaling a ton of paint - go ahead and blow your nose after - you will notice that your bogies have turned black! Make sure you drink a ton of water while spraying. Your clothes will end up with paint too unless you are the type who likes to spray in your birthday suit...
This is the box for Strike Gundam - it was waiting for me when I arrived back in Japan from Seattle - a nice welcome home present ;-)
Most PG boxes are of this size - the PG GP01 is twice the size of this box - take note when ordering.
Most PG boxes are of this size - the PG GP01 is twice the size of this box - take note when ordering.
Packing up PG Gundam MK II to go to Seattle. If you are being relocated (or if you just want to pack away your Gundams) make sure that you pack the pieces in a way that they dont rub against each other.
PG GP-01 armor pieces after shadowing - i think you can make out the difference. This was my second PG and still in the middle of learning. Now here is a useful piece of advice.....
When you have a part (like the leg of PG GP01) which has a few pieces joined up to make the armor - do the shadowing with all the pieces of armor in place instead of shadowing piece by piece. What I found after shadowing piece by piece is that when I put the armor back together, all the pieces had different amounts of shadowing making that part look extremely bad.
When you have a part (like the leg of PG GP01) which has a few pieces joined up to make the armor - do the shadowing with all the pieces of armor in place instead of shadowing piece by piece. What I found after shadowing piece by piece is that when I put the armor back together, all the pieces had different amounts of shadowing making that part look extremely bad.
The box for PG GP01 - I did not bother to make the station that came with it - neither did I bother with the Full Vernian parts either which ended up ini the bin. You may want to keep some unwanted pieces to test out your airbrush though.
PG Gundam MKII after shadowing. You can make out the Air cannister in the corner of the pic - this was taken before I got an air compressor. If you are considering going serious with Gundam modeling then get yourself a small air compressor instead of trying out these cans - these cans are absolutely useless - what happens is that you would be spraying for a while and then notice the air pressure drop as the can freezes over. You replace the can with the standby can but that freezes over too - but the first can is still frozen! You will also end up spoiling your gundam because as the air pressure drops, the flow of ink being sprayed also changes and before you know it your Gundam looks like its been dragged through some Bantha pudoo.
PG Gundam MKII ready for its dose of Top Coat. Remember - they key here is to spray and run!
PG Gundam MKII after a bout of shadowing. I used toothpicks with a bit of blutac at the end to hold a piece - now I just use a scalpel.
I was down and out at the time and you can tell because of the crummy airbrush that you can see in the photo together with the two air canisters (Que. violin).
I was down and out at the time and you can tell because of the crummy airbrush that you can see in the photo together with the two air canisters (Que. violin).
Construction of PG Gundam MKII leg. All PGs come with a frame underneath which is made up of a zillion pieces which seems a waste because the armor just covers it all up!
Runners fresh out of the PG Gundam MKII box - my first Gundam kit. In general, if you are buying a PG in Japan it will cost about 10000 yen (100 USD) and MGs in general cost 4000 yen.
Inking the wing of Aile Striker. Some people paint over the grooves and wipe off with a cotton bud but that kinda takes more time...
Even if you are really careful at snipping out a piece from a runner, you may still get a bit of plastic left over - cut off with a scalpel and sand down - then re-spray over the mark with the original spray that you initially used.
In the middle of constructing the Aile Striker. there are only a few parts and the whole thing can be put together in a few hours. Even if you cant read Japanese, the manuals are all "Lego standard."
This is the hand which comes with PG Strike Gundam. Those who have a collection of PGs will know that it's a different mold from the previous PGs. The hands that came with previous PGs broke easily - my PG Gundam MKII has already lost a finger!
I went and ordered two pairs of PG Strike Gundam hands - re-sprayed and replaced the old hands on my pre-strike gundam models (PG GP01 and PG Gundam MKII).
The new mold is much stronger and looks much better too.
You will notice that in the instructions of any Gundam kit, that there is a little form - if you fill it in with the piece number and quantity, you can order replacement parts from Bandai's customer service center. Unfortunately it looks like you can make use of this service only if you live in Japan. And no - please dont ask me!
I went and ordered two pairs of PG Strike Gundam hands - re-sprayed and replaced the old hands on my pre-strike gundam models (PG GP01 and PG Gundam MKII).
The new mold is much stronger and looks much better too.
You will notice that in the instructions of any Gundam kit, that there is a little form - if you fill it in with the piece number and quantity, you can order replacement parts from Bandai's customer service center. Unfortunately it looks like you can make use of this service only if you live in Japan. And no - please dont ask me!
Parts from Aile Striker ready to have its nip marks covered up with a coat of spray.
Aile Striker having its first and final dose of Top Coat. If you are going to use Top Coat - be sure to order a few cans.
Before you do the Top Coat, brush off any dust with a toothbrush or similar brush type object (like your eyelids or nasal hair).
Parts from PG Strike Gundam before and after inking/stickering. Strike was another example where I initially decided on no-stickers/no-inking - the main reason was because I was worried that I was going to ruin it. But after doing the deeds, Strike Gundam looks totally different - much cooler and meaner than before.
MG Gundam ready for its Top Coat. As you can see - I screwed up the shield with too much shadowing but re-doing the shield takes 20 years so I decided to leave it and say that Gundam was in a fight with something grey and wet.
This is how I spray shadow my pieces - shove a scalpel in the back and you are done.
You can just about notice the difference between the shadowed and non shadowed piece. Unfortunately, the edges of the stickers start to stand out ;-(
So thats it for now - more to come as I buy more Gundams!
So thats it for now - more to come as I buy more Gundams!
And hopefully you should end up something similar to this - or better ;-) Have a look in the galleries for more shots of completed Gundam kits.
If you are new here, you may want to keep up with more of the same via RSS or Danny's other networks. (dont show again)
Its here and now that I have finished the inking, it looks cooler and groovier than ever - go see t...(more)
Mon 09/05 13:18 comments (3)
OK, I have kept you waiting long enough - your mince pies are in for a truesome treat in the Strike ...(more)
Tue 08/16 14:37 comments (5)
luke in roanoke, va
this is EXACTLY what i've been needing; even more so since i'm just about to start building my MG GP01Fb. props to you, my friend, props indeed.
(ID #33376) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Hey I was reading this and looking at the comments and saw that you are from Roanoke. I just moved to Blacksburg and I was wondering where you buy gundam models from. I haven't had any luck looking in Blacksburg or Christiansburg and I'm wondering if you order them online or go in town? Thanks if you can get back to me.
(ID #227420) Posted on 2008/07/02 05:01
martin irizarry in boston, ma
I want to say thank you for sharing your experiance in to making a person gundam the best it can be. You are THE man.I you can could you make a spaecial folder or link that this information won't be pushed back to the back burn. In a another wordsa "special link for this info. Thank you again. Now my Gundams will be PERFECT grade models
(ID #33378) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
S.D. in New York
Oh WoW! That's incrediably detailed! Thanks!!
(ID #33379) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Shane Latkovic in Perth, Australia
I just completed my PG Strike, a few days to early for your tutorial! Nonetheless, i look forward to using your techniques in this very useful tutorial. We all appreciate your help very much, thanks for your time.
(ID #33380) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
SbebiWan in France
Great tutorial ! I think I will buy some equipment to do my next kit ! I want to test my painting skills.
(ID #33381) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
S.D. in N.Y.
Hi, I put an entry up at Child of Mecha under "Tutorials". This is very helpful and concise. Again, Thanks! A link To the Post (Sorry, It's Long): http://www.childofmecha.com/Forum/upload/index.php?s=10029963f9d5bb78054d2646f9d7e894&act=ST&f=4&t=266&st=0&#entry62270
(ID #33383) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Ryan in Toronto
hi..i find this tutorial very useful but just one question...what other paint did u mix with the thinner for shadwoing ur gundam and what ratio?
(ID #33385) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
tony in australia
Hello danny on Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People so basiclly i dont need a compressor or airbrush if i didnt wot to shadow the gundam and all i need to do is buy those tamiya,gundam colour spray and spray it on the Runner etc
(ID #33386) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Goh in Singapore
nip at the parts is visible. I used sandpaper to sand it down. however, the colour changed a bit. Do I really have to use air-brush to repaint the entire thing?
(ID #33395) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
I just ordered my first PG (Strike and Skygrasper) and I want to paint it but ive never done any of that stuff before so this is really helpful! Im gonna practice on my MKII Ver. 2 thats on its way. Although I have one question...instead of using a gundam marker can I use an Ultra fine tip sharpie? Ive used them before on some HGUC models to good effect but im not sure if the eraser and sandpaper thing will work...
(ID #33507) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Danny Choo
Chopper Dave, I have only used the Gundam markers so cant really comment on any other pen - sorry!
(ID #33525) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Daniel in Texas
Last time i made a gundam plamo was about 5 yeas ago now sence i have seen you tutural, You have ensiped me to make a new model, sence i have money to spare Thanks alot for your tutural it helped fill in the gaps of where i need to improve i guess i can finnlay put that 30gal cmpressor to good use insted of filling up flat tires
(ID #33674) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
saskea in Canada
Hello, I was wondering which Top Coat I should Use I have a Semi Gloss and a Gloss I don't know which one to use on my Strike Freedom and Destiny.. can u tell me which one i should use? thanks
(ID #33776) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Ryan C. in Louisiana, USA
I really like the idea of primoring Gundam parts, but doesn't the primor scrape off when you bend the completed Gundam's joints?
(ID #33818) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Richard Loxam in UK, Stockport
Ill definately be making use of this guide when I am in Japan and my rented apartment is full of gundam :)
(ID #33913) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
:D in Canada
Hello danny, I was wondering if you could give me some tips..... I have a gundam and I painted it. When I use the ink can I ease it? because I tryed using a easer but it didn't work and I also tryed using the gundam marker thing (takes away ink) but it takes away the paint.. It be great if you could tell me and thanks :)
(ID #33965) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Kira in the sky
Hiya :D There doesnt seem to be any way to remove inked parts without removing the paints. If you use acrylic paints, you should seal it with top coat, Future floor acrylic, or johnsons clear, then thats your paint protected. Now try and ink the parts and see if it removes the paint.
(ID #33968) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Winn Sevilla in manila, philippines
waaaaaaah! i just finished my pg strike and i just read this!?!..........
(ID #34004) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
I just got my Strike Rouge PG in the mail! I can't wait to build this thing! So im not going to. I won't be on for awhile...*drool*
(ID #34019) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Kyasharin in Manila, Philippines
cool...i'm re-learning to build kits after a 2 year haitus due to some modelling group problem... this tut really made think twice on how i build kits and paint them...such a simple way yet VERY effective... BTW...just some info i thought you'd like to know...that gray primer you accidentally sprayed can be removed BUT you'll have to sacrifice the plastic of the kit...coz what i do when i do when i screw up occasionally is that dip the part into a container with mr.color thinner for about 30 to 40 seconds when just wipe it off...problem in this is that the plastic become too brittle and extra care for the plastic is a must :P
(ID #34051) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
R. Castillo in Manila, Philippines
Thanks so much for this guide Danny! I've been a Gundam fan for quite some time but have never had the time or the know-how to build Gundam model kits. Because of your tutorial, I have the know-how part nailed down, now I just have to find the time. Cheers!
(ID #34053) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
William in New York
Just wondering, I'm trying to use the gundam markers to paint my Duel AS's backpack (The part that looks silver) . I am getting marks from the marker tip so not all of it gets painted, like it has little slashes or something on it. I'm wondering what I can do to prevent that. Thanks.
(ID #34073) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Andrew in Ventura Calif.
Hey Dan I'm 38 years old and I have been modeling for some 30 years...(damn that is a long time) I've owned a PG Wing Zero Custom Bandi's Flagship PG. It took me only 12 hoours from start to finish construction. Now I'm slowly detailing and painting it. I personally prefer testor's Model Master Paints They use Mil-Spec grade paints. I've been very pleased with my wing Zero and I plan On getting the RX-178 titans and buy the resin Conversion kit to make it the PG Titans Version with the Hyper Mega Launcher. I'm Also looking into getting the Rogue Strike with Skgrasper/Aile Kit. And possiably the IWSP Conversion Kit.A few pointers on stripping off paint. You can Use COleman's Camp Stove Fuel in the 1 Gallon cans it will strip paint and NOT damage plastic. Not even Clear Plastic, which Paint thinner will fog. and a tip for propel cans let them sit IN hot water while you spray. it minimizes the freezing. Plus I should also mention ALWAYS use a Sharp Blade for your hobby knife. a dull one ...welll you might end up chopping a finger to the bone than cutting off a plastic part.Also I use drafting/art pens ranging from .033-.07 German Rotrung are the best, and just wipe off excess dry ink with a soft cloth. No harsh chemicals are needed. IF anyoneelse has any questions write me at geistrazorclaw@aol.com
(ID #34074) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Andrew in Ventura Calif.
William use a SHARP hobby knife blade and carefully trim it.
(ID #34075) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Frisco in California
What's up Dan? Great site! I'm new to building models. My only question is: What type of Top Coat did you use for your PG GP-01? (Flat, or Semi-Gloss?). It looks flat, but then again from an angle it gives off a bit of shine. Thanks in advance.
(ID #34104) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Andrew in vancouver, british columbia (c...
Danny Choo, I love you ^^. Was wondering how far away should I spray paint? For example, the distance from the can to the parts I want to spray paint. I tried doing it before and it created air bubbles and my friend consulted me that I was spraying too close? Thanks again.
(ID #34117) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Johnny Nguyen in USA
Thanks for the great advice. Amazon has American Mastergrades for under 10 dollars! I managed to snag a Kampfer, and most likely will get the others. You've inspired me to take up Gundam Models again! Thanks!
(ID #34172) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Derick Pun in Vancouver BC
Hey Danny the tutorial was a great help but I still have some questions, like do you use the Grey Gundam marker for the white pieces, and the black marker for the coloured pieces. I was wondering how you mixed the GreY and White spray paints to make that light grey with texture...
(ID #34186) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Tyrant001 in San Jose, Costa Rica
Hey, GREAT tutorial. You do almost the same things I do with my models. But...you took pictures of all the steps and since Im a mod in a modelling page...I was wondering if I could link to this page ? So that the people there could watch step by step how do we make a model look good. I already linked it but gave you full credit. Thanks in advance.
(ID #34228) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
Hey Danny quick question. How many coats of paint do you add to a runner? And do you sand inbetween coats? Thanks!
(ID #34372) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Danny Choo in Tokyo
Late reply to Derick Pun. I first sprayed grey but it was too dark so sprayed over it with white which gave just the right grey that I wanted (the grey underneath shows through). Dave, I spray the runner once. then sand and then spray as needed. The new models that I make will be given a coat of undercoat or "Surfacer" before I spray. If you stick in your email address next time, I will be able to respond directly ;-)
(ID #34379) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Geoffery (Registered on 2008/10/07 20:25)
Hi Danny, I need to seek your advise on gundam modelling. Can you pls drop me a note at geofferyang@hotmail.com ? I'll consult you then. Appreciate it. Thanks.
(ID #328233) Posted on 2008/10/09 13:28
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
Thanks! That helps, cause the white parts on my MK II Ver. 2 look like crap T.T
(ID #34385) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
marc in singapore
er.....i'm still not very good at gundam modelling,so i may have lots of questions to ask...after spraying paint on the parts right?u ink them and then later fix them together...but there is a thin line of gap in between the parts..what do you do with them???
(ID #34514) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
ross in Tokyo
Hi Danny, Where would your recommend buying these models and paints from? Is there a good shop you can recommend in Tokyo? Thanks :)
(ID #34641) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
ZenD in London, UK
Nice tutorial but I couldn't find any references on installing the LED lights that some of the Perfect Grade kits have, for example the Endless Waltz Wing Zero. If you've ever tried to fit them then I'd be interested to hear how you did it.
(ID #34681) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Avitar in Illinois
Wow, this shows me I really need to ink my models. You sir, are an inspiration to me. I just love going though your gallery and looking at our work.
(ID #35059) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Norman in Philippines
Wow!Thanks for letting me know how to stick that decals.How many hours or days do you paint a 1/100 Master Grade gundam kit?Me,it takes about 2 to 3 days.Is that long?I only paint during my dayoffs,and sometimes if I have extra time before work.But your works are f#@!ng amazing man!
(ID #35156) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
William in New York
I was looking for an airbrush online, and was amazed at how many turned up for different prices on ebay. Just wondering what kind of airbrush I should be looking at. Thanks.
(ID #35226) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
nacho in canada
hey danny. i have one question. on your tutorial it sais you can wipe off the ink right? well i cant wipe my ink off (erase). it just smudges with the paint. can u please help me?
(ID #35443) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
William in New York
nacho, if you're talking about the gundam marker, use a pencil rubber (eraser I think). Usually I just keep smudging it until it pretty much fades away completely, but thats what danny said in the tutorial. Do a ctrl+f for pencil. You'll see it. :)
(ID #35460) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
gmbluedestiny in canada
how do u remove the topcoating on your gundam model kit?
(ID #35528) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
nacho in canada
for erasing the extra gundam marker off your gundam model does that only work on unpainted models? because i painted my strike freedom and i tried to erase it but it dosent work
(ID #35537) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kevin in KINGDOM OF GREAT KEVIN (check ...
could you do that also for MG's??? Do you think Bandai America will soon do what is Bandai Japan is doing for replacement parts?
(ID #35686) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Kai Hian in Singapore
Hi Danny, i've just started trying to paint my gundam models and i have this problem that there are air bubbles form on the surface after i spray with tamiya paint. Any idea why i do get that problem? By the way great tutorial. Thank You!
(ID #35774) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Shingo! in NYC
Hi, Great stuff! You inspired me to continue with the gundam modeling. I do have the same question as many others though. I have a problem with getting bubbles when I spray paint. Why does this happen? Am I spraying too close? if so, how far away should I be spraying? (A picture would be nice thanks )
(ID #35862) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kevin in IN THE GREAT KINGDOM OF KEVIN(...
could you make a tutorial about Resin kits (old injection model kits that MUST have painting and glueing)? THANK YOU!
(ID #35898) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Terence in New York, NY USA
Can you make a tutorial of "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for NOT-Busy People" I got a lot of time. I want to learn the best ways to build my gundams. Bought A LOT of gundams kits in the past month. Just waiting to be built.
(ID #36028) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Derrick in Vancouver BC
I was wondering where I can get my hands on Topcoat, I can find this product anywhere so if you now where to get this in Vancouver ( BC ) email me the location. thankS
(ID #36063) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kevin in MA USA
This is a really basic tip for anyone: I noticed that you were just holding the runners with your hand... well you could just tie some wire around the runner and spray it while holding the wire - that means you don't spray your precious little fingers! And it won't twist around while you're spraying like it would if you used string. Thanks for the cool tutorial.
(ID #36080) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Cal in England (Chinese tho)
That is fantastic tutorial, well done! I am currently transforming my 1/144 HG EX-S gundam using US navy colour scheme, having the toughest time since it is so small but your tutorial helps me a lot esp. on inking and painting, could you tell me what kind of airbrush and compressor you are using now? Coz i am still using brushes to pain which ultimately make the paint really think, nothing i can do tho but i am sure it will be so cool.
(ID #36483) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Will in manchester, England
hey Danny, this is a fantastic site, I'm just about to start my 1/100 destiny now and have everything apart from an air compressor. Instead I have two cans of propellent because i have no more money, what is the two canister trick? and do you have any tips to make the canisters last longer. Thank you
(ID #36801) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Sally in Manchester England
Hey Danny I just wanted to say you have the best modelling site. Great detail, wonderfully written and lots of glossy pics. I've just bought my first kit too 'Gelgoog Jager' HG and wanted to thankyou for such an informative website. We in Manchester SALute you!
(ID #36915) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Chinedu Okoye in London
I've only just got into purchasing models since i watched gundam seed and had enough money to buy them. I'd bought three high grade kits but after seeing yours, i think mine are relatively weak seeing as i just put them together rather than inking them and spraying them etc. Is there anyway of fixing them up to a higher degree once they're already together, please email back. Peace
(ID #37315) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
HEAVENs KATANA in Columbia, South Carolina
omg!!! ur like a friggin king in the timeless world of gundam models. dude, i wish i were like you.
(ID #37380) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kero_kerberus in Singapore
i am a beginner in modelling... i am trying to modelled EX-19 Archangel but there isn't a colour guide, can you help me will that?
(ID #37400) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kero_kerberus in Singapore
Hi, i am a beginner modeller can you help me with the colour guide for EX-19 Archangel? thanks.
(ID #37403) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Kenneth in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi Danny I read the "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People" already, which give me a lot of help to start with. The first step you mention that you spray directly onto the Runner without any primer. But what is the things you user to spray onto the Runner? I like your site very much Thanx
(ID #37447) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Henry
How do you paint the smaller sections such as vents, eyes, and thrusters? Once we go over the sprues with pain, how do you suggest we do the detail painting?
(ID #37610) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Tim in Vancouver
Thanks for the tutorial. It helped a lot. I have one question though. Which colours did you use to paint your PG Strike? I don't know how to read Japanese so I'm not sure if I could figure out the colours from the manual. If you could email me the list I'd really appreciate it. Thank you. -Tim
(ID #37639) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
uzumaki in NYC
love your tutorial!!! i've been looking for a site with good info like this for quite some time. i have a question...how did you get your pg mk 2 color like that? i have the pg a.e.u.g. mk 2 and am not sure what colors to use. and also do any gundam markers come with those colors? i find it rather difficult to get tamiya sprays over here and i'm iffy on getting them online cuz i don't want to get the wrong colors. Thanks!!
(ID #37787) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kong in Singapore
thumbs up to tis tutorial! u r great man!! i would juz like to ask u how do u spray topcoat ensuring dat the whole gundam is covered? or do u spray more than 1 coat? pls mail back... thx ;)
(ID #37795) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kong in Singapore
im not a pro in modelling... however, i can answer the pray-painting parts coz i was into grafitti... all rite, when u spray, make sure the pressure is same throughout. several light coats is always better than a heavy 1... n many ppl like to press on lightly such dat the can sputters thinking dat by doin tis, little paint will come out... NO!!! tis will result in ugly drops of paint on ur model n u'll end up with bubbles... if u wan a little paint on dat part, juz hold the can further... normally when spraying, it shld be around 20-25 cm from the object.
(ID #37821) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kero in Singapore
hi... i am now doing MG Wing Zero Custom but i dun like th orginial colour... Got any nice advice on how i should colour it? Why is there no paint sample for tamiya, mr hobby or gundam paint very hard to decide the colour like that? Btw this wedsite is way cool, you might wanna take a look. This person modelled all the gundam he or she own till each of them is the real Gundam in reality but the only bad thing is the wedsite is all in jap cant understand a word so can only look at the pic. http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/gallery2/gallery.htm hope you will read this and reply. nice tutorial you have.. help alot
(ID #38046) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
painting n00bie in New York City
how do u apply the top coat instead of telling me to spray nd run ? xD and please provide more spray painting info for people who cant afford a air brush.....thanks
(ID #38490) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
painting n00bie in New York City
by the way u r a great photographer the PG strike gallery is fantastic!
(ID #38491) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Justin in Eagle Rock, Los Angeles
hey Danny i'd just like to say your tutorial was a BIG help, but i was wondering what kind of pencil rubber you used to clean up excess ink while inking the gundam? the erasers ive used leave a wierd texture on the pieces and barely take any ink off. please help me out !
(ID #38876) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Trent in Minnesota, America
I love this guide! I've allways wanted to know how to make really good looking models! All i've been able to do previously is paint little parts with craft paint, and using a black Sharpie for panel lines...
(ID #39021) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Crash Variant
Your site and your tutorial are cool, man. And doing the Gundam by spraying while the parts are still in the runners was the way I did it many years. And we ended up the same way. Except, till now, I preyer Tamiya paint. (Note: No sponsorship from that brand.) Cheers!
(ID #39080) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
kc in singapore
hey danny, i was just wondering, would tamiya spraypaint stick on without primer unlike those water based acrylic paints?
(ID #39204) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Ivan in Canada, BC, Vancouver
I was wondering why the color of my spray paint is so shiny when it is dried compared to yours, is there something I should buy? I prefer to build a non-shiny gundam like yours. Also when I used white spray-paint on my gundam, it seemed to be messy and off color compared to when I sprayed my blue and red paint. Thanks for your time.
(ID #39220) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
yori in canada
i want to buy a perfect grade strike but i was always bad at panting . How can i make the colour just like yours? Thanks for your help
(ID #39339) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Alan in Colorado
I'm a little confused to how you sprayed the runners, did you spray primer on the runners first? or did you just spray paint on em? and which type/brand of paint did you use to get that smooth texture like in your photo. Thnx a lot and your very AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(ID #39340) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
andy in New Jersey
Well I read when what you said about using thinner to get rid of excess paint. So I was wondering if the paint markers Im useing have thinner because when I didnt shake them up enough the paint came out almost like a thin black color(I was using grey Mr. Hobby Gundam seed set) so any way after a few minutes the plastic cracked. So I was wondering of it was bad plastic or was there so much thinner in the marker that it cracked the plastic. Also the gundam is the Aile Stirke Gundam Master Grade.
(ID #39393) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Andy in New Jersey
P.S. Im still learning the do's and dont's about gundam and what I really wanted to know is what are the best paints for gundam and could you tell me where I could get them. As of right now I use paint markers for everything. I dont know if thats the right thing to do because I used a grey marker from a gundam seed marker set and it melted and cracked the plastic. I did shake the marker so the thinner and paint were mixed and I would see if it was mixed by applying it to the tray that the parts are connected to. But the grey marker was the only thing that melted the plastic. So I hope you can give me some good tips and do's and dont's.P.S. It happened to the Aile Strike Master Grade gundam.
(ID #39516) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Ken in Malaysia
Ive learned alot from reading your tips and so on...and got a lot of ideas from looking at your gundam pics....ive worked on my freedom MG however didnt work out really well but i like it....customed some parts silver.....im planning on getting another freedom MG this time however gonna do a better job...looking forward for more tips 4 my new freedom!!! thx danny!~
(ID #40733) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Yashirou
Hey Danny, Are all you're Plamo's just sprayed or are you also using you're Airbrush for painting a complete kit ?
(ID #40830) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Just learner in Richmond
if you do your gundam that way(spray runner, snip and spray). won't the gundam have seamlines(lines that show up when you stick two pieces together)?
(ID #41065) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Brian in Los Angeles
Great tutorial, although i felt it kinda jumped from place to place at times. I collect Super Deformed kits, ever since i was a kid. I was never into painting, since i never really knew how. After building my prized Destiny Gundam, im sad to realize its kinda too late to paint it. I never thought much of nip marks until i saw your tutorial. Makes my paintless collection look like junk. :P
(ID #42059) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Anativeofearth in Louisville, Kentucky
All I want to say is thanks for your detailed pictures and awesome layout. I'm going to spend a little more time with my models, but I still got some tips from this. Thanks Buddy..
(ID #42144) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Edimasta in Vienna
Hi, I would need some help... I want to paint / spray my gundams too, but I am really worried about the Tamiya colors because I don't know if it's the right one or not :) Could you tell me the "codes" of the sprays you used for your Strike Gundam and the RX-178 MK II (both Perfect Grades) because the colors for the RX-178 are really tough to find... don't know which one it should be, some sort of grey-blue-green or... oO Or is there any forum or site that tells, which code of tamiya spray is fitting the colors of the gundams...?
(ID #42181) Posted on 2007/01/02 02:35
Stephen in Vancouver, Canada
You're the man Danny Choo. A year ago I read this tutorial, and I decide to start detailed modeling. Now, I have finally started! You are frigging hilarious.
(ID #45398) Posted on 2007/03/14 08:23
Thats hardcore. I use a nail clipper and thin pernament marker to make my gundam detailed. And i paint sometime depending how i feel but i always paint the yellow gold.
(ID #45976) Posted on 2007/03/29 16:27
Student and Executioner
Dang! Making Gundam is a whole lot harder than I thought! Thanks for the guide, Danny!
(ID #47698) Posted on 2007/05/12 08:44
Hey Danny, great tutorial! I have a question, in one of your pictures I noticed that you were using a Mr. Hobby Pro-Spray Mk-(w/e#) with air cans. The thing is I recently bought one and I am having trouble using it. I can't read Japanese, so the instruction manual is of no use to me. Can you give me some tips/pointers with this particular airbrush? Thanks!
(ID #48599) Posted on 2007/05/27 08:37
GundamDorkNeko in United States
Thank you for the tutorial, its handy.. The town I live in is to stuck up to carry gundam products *fury* so I have to resort to the internet... Anyways, decals are cool looking..makes Gundams look like those fix figuration thingies (I'm so technical). Thanks again for this tutorial!
(ID #49261) Posted on 2007/06/08 07:30
Delta in Side 1
Hey! I was wondering if you have built MG Nu Gundam. I am not sure how to paint the inner frame's metallic parts.
(ID #49438) Posted on 2007/06/10 18:26
Kousaka in USA
Nice work on the Gundam plamo Danny. BTW, the finished Gundam models look great too.
(ID #50198) Posted on 2007/06/23 01:58
chiyochagi in Jakarta
I've read them all and i find them really fascinating. Truly, the paintjob really makes a difference. Simply.. amazing But, danny, i think your tutorial is not in an orderly fashion... After a thorough reading, I've summarized a few things to my understanding. "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy and N00b People Who Wanted to Learn Modelling Really Badly" Things that you essentially needs: 1. Nipper 2. Airbrush 3. Topcoat 4. Lotsa newspaper 5. Masker 6. Gundam Marker Ink 7. Eraser/sandpaper Things that you gotta do: 1. Spray the runner. This is where your masker proves to be useful 2. Dry them like 20 minutes outside 3. After the runners are dried, ink the lines and grooves along with the armor, use eraser/sandpaper to remove overflowing ink. Don't cut the gates yet. 4. Use the nipper to cut the gates from the runners. Cut up the "excessive" gates in the parts, coat the scar with the same color of spray. If the spray invades your inklines (which i think is very likely to happen), simply re-ink the lines. 5. Start assemblying the model. Leave the skeletal part visible, as we want to do some topcoating. 6. Start topcoating. The key is to spray and run. Hit it like a guerillan combatant 7. Assembly all of the armor. Let's hope that your paintjob can scare a house puppy dog Notes: 1. I don't add shadowing cause the air compressor's not a thing that everyone can really afford. Except the air compressor got other purposes and functions in the modelling. 2. I also don't add the third party decals... I've only see it once in a lifetime and it's in your website! 3. I'm kinda confused with point four in "Things that you gotta do". Any depth information will be useful. Last notes: 1. This summarization is to let the readers know that we're on the same page of understanding. So, please correct me if i'm wrong. A few additional tips from the expert would be very nice too. 2. Practice makes perfect. Thousands would die for the glory of Rome, so does your models.
(ID #50654) Posted on 2007/06/30 02:27
D.A.I in LA
Hey danny, just wondering how would you use the tamiya primer surface (grey). for example i'm currently making my Strike I.W.S.P, and having trouble spraying over the white parts. My friend said that first is to sand down the parts using Abrassive 400 then 1000, and then spray primer, then spray paint. So far i am really stuck on how to do it right. it would be nice if you can provide me details on how to make shadowing without air brush. or maybe air brush is essential? if you dont mind can you make a tutorial for the serious people hahaha, the one with step by step of sanding and etc... Thx!!
(ID #50655) Posted on 2007/06/30 02:51
William Jeon in Toronto Canada
Hey Danny.. I was modeling my PG Strike and in the progress i broke 3 finger tips >.< is there any way to put them back on... or is it just finished?
(ID #51172) Posted on 2007/07/07 16:40
hi Danny this tut was very helpful. I've built 2 gundams first one was 1/144 burning gundam and 5 days ago i built 1/100 sword strike gundam. this was a good tutorial but can you just prime, spray, sand, spray,then detal please help me out.
(ID #51318) Posted on 2007/07/10 03:17
bryan le in markham ON, canada
hey danny =) great guide! i was building a PG strike when i broke off a finger =_=...is there any way to fix this? or is it done for? too bad i didn't live in japan so i could just order more =_= thanks! =)
(ID #51692) Posted on 2007/07/15 19:22
Mi-Chan in USA, OR
man I need a pencil rubber.. Thanks for the tutorial, its really helpful..for tards like me.
(ID #52740) Posted on 2007/07/27 19:47
mrdiva
Wow.. thanks for your enriching lesson. i was just wondering where is the top coat use for? and do i need to spray like a basic layer before i start painting? sorry arh, i am a noob. lol
(ID #53356) Posted on 2007/08/03 18:06
Where does one obtain scalpels at O_o heh
(ID #53389) Posted on 2007/08/04 03:53
Thank you for a wonderful tutorial! Now once my two PG kits arrive, I will follow your advice and stock up on more paints, thinners, and extra pieces for my compressor! You surely know your stuff, thanks
(ID #53518) Posted on 2007/08/05 11:18
R in canada
so i read through ur tutorial and looked through many of ur gundam gallaries, and i'm planning on building a pg strike as well. i'm wondering, specifically what colours were used to paint the strike because i can't tell the diffrence between greys on the tamiya site. thx
(ID #53830) Posted on 2007/08/09 02:23
student , otaku and awesome blogger
this helps so much, i have been making gundam for 6 months but all i have making are the 1/144 models from the HGC series, maybe i should make a master grade
(ID #54754) Posted on 2007/08/18 03:13
Hi Danny, could you please email me about this question? :P For the gundam markers where you fill in the panel lines, is it ok to use a different sort of pen? The pen I have at the moment is a permanent fine tip, but i tested on a SD kit and I made a error and I couldn't use the rubber trick to remove it :S Should I stop before proceeding with the PG panel lines? Thanks Danny
(ID #54806) Posted on 2007/08/18 20:00
Hey dan great gundam tutorial, but I got a question maybe I missed it but how do you color the face? And also what kind of spary paint do you use? the one with double stars? or is there a specific can I need to buy.
(ID #55061) Posted on 2007/08/22 05:41
Raza in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Hey there! Well after years of searching I stumbbled upon your post in which you give a quick tutorial on how to build a gundam figurine. Although it was remarquably worth reading all of it. I have many uncertanties and wish to contact you to have info and advice on how to build my gundam figurine. This is because I wanted the best of the best and do not have any experience in modeling :S. Lol! My gundam figurine: PG Gundam Wing Zero custom pearl mirror coated version Ordered a MG gundam wing zero custom last night to practice on. Anyway, since I do have a PG and no experience it would be good to actually talk to someone who has actually built some and get some feedback on what I should get for it before I start and what I should be aware of on it. Like I've said, I ordered a MG last night and will first try modeling that one. Altough I would really like to get to talk more to you for tips and advice. You are the only person I have got to know online who has built PG's. Thank you for your time. Add me on msn and send me and e-mail please! MSN: thegreat1_halo@hotmail.com
(ID #55526) Posted on 2007/08/27 00:40
Hi there!! I've just finished building my PG Strike *drools* xD And if you're on a real tight low bdget like moi, then your strike will look pants. Because there are so many different shades of white that are used (paying £100 for a model kit, surely they could've made the white the same shade ¬___¬ ) But anywho!! With the etching stickers, how do you do them? With mg kits there are easy to transfer, but the PG types don't work :S Am I doing something wrong?? Please, anyone reply >_
(ID #55829) Posted on 2007/08/30 12:26
Just ordered my PG strike and skygrasper. Going to be my first PG and my first atempt at painting. Dont freak yet i have 3 HG wing models to practise on first. Have also built, and inked a MG Strike freedom as well, didn't have the money to paint that one though. And it's got all the decals on now so not likely to happen. Any words of wisdom are welcome to help me ruining a large amount of money. Its a shame the kits actually don't cost alot, its the damn postage. Both models bought together plus postage cost me £101, or roughly $200. Building it is going to be an experience.
(ID #57038) Posted on 2007/09/16 21:49
Wow awesome tut. Now, does anyone have a good site that sells gundam models/markers?
(ID #57404) Posted on 2007/09/22 03:23
Raza in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
www.hlj.com if you are somewhere other than north america. If you are in america. go to: www.hobbywave.com Hobbywave is less expensive for anyone living in north america. Its 10$ shipping to us and canada for up to a 100 items. So even if you order 1 or 10 items, your just paying 10 dollars for shipping. But if you want em fresh of the boat like my friend says, stick to hlj, plus hlj has lots of gundam markers. Hobbywave does not have any type of accessories, except decals. One more thing, if you live in us or canada and go with hobbywave, you also don't have to pay duty tax. I ordered pg wing zero pearl mirror coated version from hlj. The figurine cost me 250$, transportation fees cost me 50$ and custom cost me 43$, a grand total of around 350$, if I went with hobbywave, they are selling it for 311$, plus 10 dollars shipping so it comes up to 320$, save about 30$, so you can go spend it on something like....hm....spray paints and gundam markers :). hope this helps, it took me a while to find a website with deals like this and that I can actually trust.
(ID #57482) Posted on 2007/09/23 01:39
jeremy
hey,what happens when there are still visible snip marks?i have already sanded it all down but there are still some marks??what do i do??
(ID #61381) Posted on 2007/10/29 14:57
jeremy
danny.whats a masker(the one you use to spray onto the runner)?im a noob):
(ID #61589) Posted on 2007/10/31 07:43
The Masked Bishop in Malaysia
*Takes a deep breath* Well, Danny, I've been lurking around your blog since 2005, and this is the first time I actually commented on your blog. Love your stuff, keep it up. So I've been building MG kits for a couple of years now, and this year I decided that I want to start on spray painting my kits, detailing em' with Gundam paint markers, applying topcoat and etc, and I've got a few questions that need clarification. i) I'm not intending to start on airbrushing as of yet, so for a newbie, what type of spray cans would you recommend? And what sorts of precautions should I take when I spray paint my kits, besides masking and applying the paint in several thin layers? ii)I've read recently that applying top-coat on hot, dry days causes the kit to look as if it went through a snow storm. If so, what precautions should I take when I apply top coat, besides the health hazards you've mentioned? iii) I notice that you use spray cans as well as Gundam markers to build your kits, how long are the shelf lives of these things? iv) And last but not least, chrome plating. The recent MG Destiny Extreme Blast and MG Strike Freedom Full Burst are notorious for having a chrome-too-shiny-plating, US sites would recommend Formula 409 to do the job. But since I'm outside the US, and is planning to get both kits, would normal household bleach do to strip the chrome layer off? Here I'll thank you in advance, I do hope you can help a fellow Gunpla modeler out here. Thanks again.
(ID #62191) Posted on 2007/11/05 11:36
College Student/Model Enthusist
Wonderful work on the model, but just wondering, is there any precise reason that you prefer spray-painting and air-brushing over brush-painting? The texture that you get out of Sprays I find to be much more desirable, but are there any other advantages that outweigh the disadvantages with smaller kits? (1/144th is where I do most of my work) I just find it such overkill to work with for smaller units, where-as with a brush I can do much more precise work, and I don't waist any paint. Would you be able to suggest any specific "nippers"? Is there a set officially put out by Bandai that I would be able to pick up?
(ID #62545) Posted on 2007/11/07 08:12
saturn54 in ipoh, malaysia
excuse me, i want to ask something about thinning the paint for airbrushing..when i try to mix the mr color with mr thinner, the paint become to thick, it stick to the stirrer n i can see it like chewing gum..how can i solve the problem?
(ID #64360) Posted on 2007/11/21 13:28
catalina Bastias in Chile
Hello how come I ended up here!? I've been painting wargame models for two years now, you can see some of my work on http://ladykito.deviantart.com/ but I want to go further I'd like to contact you and ask for hints of techniques like "shadowing" and other ones I didn't get, I own an airbrush but I never actually needed it (because the scale of the models I paint are (1/72 or less) I have three HG Eva's (from evangelion) ready to be built, and a PG Eva-01 evangelion wainting for me until I get more skilled I'd like to see more of your work specially tutorial. Here where I live, Chile (tip for ignorant people: yes, we DO use electricity and we don't live in tents) there are not many brands of craft items, so, for example, the gundam markers, I haven't even heard of them, I just can get some tamiya spray cans, just some colors etc. well, if you feel like helping this poor little girl xD you can send me an email: catalapiz@hotmail.com or, tell me about other sites, if you're a big busy man (roar) thanks for all catalina
(ID #65372) Posted on 2007/11/29 18:34
danny i got a quesiton, I built a few models but i haven't gone as far as painting them or anything. i wanted to make the models look flat instead of just og the glossy looking plastic it come in. is topcoat a good solution to this?
(ID #65818) Posted on 2007/12/03 19:43
Wow 0.o thats looks hard, i didnt know u had to do so much stuff and an airbrush..... im going to go cry now
(ID #66202) Posted on 2007/12/06 22:03
Yao in Singapore
I can I know what is the Meaning of Spraying of the Runner on the uncut model frame and have a very good texture after using runner. What is a Runner and what can it do and what is the name for it
(ID #66281) Posted on 2007/12/07 14:32
I just found your site the other day, and I have to say I'm rather glad to find out that I'm not the only one gets most of his painting done while the pieces are still attached to the runner.
(ID #66849) Posted on 2007/12/13 13:15
Unemployed student
Since Topcat is a bit out of my budget, I went to a near by Michael's and bought a matte finish spray to play around with. It said it can be used on plastic, so I thought it can't be any worse than Topcoat. I sprayed two of my gundams, a HG Sword Impulse, and a MG Kaempfer. Cept now some of the parts on Kaempfer don't stay too well. Did I do something wrong, or do I need a more specific type of finish spray?
(ID #70191) Posted on 2008/01/20 03:55
bx (Registered on 2008/01/21 05:53)
What camera did you use to take these pictures? Did you use a tri-stand?
(ID #70302) Posted on 2008/01/21 20:54
Hi there :) I've just recently stumbled upon this website while searching through Gundam Seed (and Destiny) model kits trying to see which ones are in MG. Anywho, as I was wondering through this marvelous site of yours, I discovered this guide. After reading through it, I have a few questions (I am REALLY new to Gundam model kit building, I only have one kit and that is a 1/144 HG Blitz) regarding the painting and details. I am currently planning to purchase a 1/100 scale Strike Freedom MasterGrade model kit. Here is a picture of someone else's StrikeFreedom that I wish to mimic because it looks SO cool :) http://pds7.egloos.com/pds/200709/30/42/e0064742_46fea6b8a6b4d.jpg Anywho, regarding the painting: i) Will any sort of spray paint work on the model kits? If not, then where can I (I live in Ontario, Canada) purchase the correct type(s) of spray paint? ii) In your guide, you say that you can just spray paint the runners over, clip out the pieces once they're try, sand off the marks, and then spray paint it again. Is that all the amount of paint that I need? iii) Does the StrikeFreedom MG kit come with the Decals used in the link I posted earlier in this post? If you know the answers to these questions, and if it wasn't too much trouble, could you kindly email me with the answers? You can contact me at xblitzbladex@gmail.com :)
(ID #70796) Posted on 2008/01/27 06:24
there's something that's been bugging me about inking the model, i know that there are grooves,curves or what ever you call them along the pieces that needs to be inked but what do i use to cover up the the holes that are left behind after stinking 2 pieces together? should i also ink it to cover it up?
(ID #70982) Posted on 2008/01/29 23:10
@zengar - you can use plastic cement (i use mr. hobby plastic cement) to stick the pieces together. this will meld the two pieces, some plastic will ooze out of the lines..you can then sand it to smoothen the surface - then paint over, coat, etc... do this for parts you are sure you won't be taking apart later. this is what i do to eliminate the seam lines. :)
(ID #71901) Posted on 2008/02/10 00:22
What marker is used in this tutorial to do the panel lines? I need one that size, and will rub off with a rubber or cotten wool bud. So if anyone can give me the name, brand, and size of the one that is used in this tutorial i would be very greatful. Also, is there a way to give the models a good texture that isn't plastic looking with out spraying. I find it takes too much time to spray, re-spray the nip marks, then do a topcoat. Thanks
(ID #72043) Posted on 2008/02/11 15:40
luke in roanoke, va
this is EXACTLY what i've been needing; even more so since i'm just about to start building my MG GP01Fb. props to you, my friend, props indeed.
(ID #75380) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
martin irizarry in boston, ma
I want to say thank you for sharing your experiance in to making a person gundam the best it can be. You are THE man.I you can could you make a spaecial folder or link that this information won't be pushed back to the back burn. In a another wordsa "special link for this info. Thank you again. Now my Gundams will be PERFECT grade models
(ID #75382) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
S.D. in New York
Oh WoW! That's incrediably detailed! Thanks!!
(ID #75383) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Shane Latkovic in Perth, Australia
I just completed my PG Strike, a few days to early for your tutorial! Nonetheless, i look forward to using your techniques in this very useful tutorial. We all appreciate your help very much, thanks for your time.
(ID #75384) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
SbebiWan in France
Great tutorial ! I think I will buy some equipment to do my next kit ! I want to test my painting skills.
(ID #75385) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
S.D. in N.Y.
Hi, I put an entry up at Child of Mecha under "Tutorials". This is very helpful and concise. Again, Thanks! A link To the Post (Sorry, It's Long): http://www.childofmecha.com/Forum/upload/index.php?s=10029963f9d5bb78054d2646f9d7e894&act=ST&f=4&t=266&st=0&#entry62270
(ID #75387) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Ryan in Toronto
hi..i find this tutorial very useful but just one question...what other paint did u mix with the thinner for shadwoing ur gundam and what ratio?
(ID #75389) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
tony in australia
Hello danny on Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People so basiclly i dont need a compressor or airbrush if i didnt wot to shadow the gundam and all i need to do is buy those tamiya,gundam colour spray and spray it on the Runner etc
(ID #75390) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Goh in Singapore
nip at the parts is visible. I used sandpaper to sand it down. however, the colour changed a bit. Do I really have to use air-brush to repaint the entire thing?
(ID #75399) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
I just ordered my first PG (Strike and Skygrasper) and I want to paint it but ive never done any of that stuff before so this is really helpful! Im gonna practice on my MKII Ver. 2 thats on its way. Although I have one question...instead of using a gundam marker can I use an Ultra fine tip sharpie? Ive used them before on some HGUC models to good effect but im not sure if the eraser and sandpaper thing will work...
(ID #75511) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Danny Choo
Chopper Dave, I have only used the Gundam markers so cant really comment on any other pen - sorry!
(ID #75529) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Daniel in Texas
Last time i made a gundam plamo was about 5 yeas ago now sence i have seen you tutural, You have ensiped me to make a new model, sence i have money to spare Thanks alot for your tutural it helped fill in the gaps of where i need to improve i guess i can finnlay put that 30gal cmpressor to good use insted of filling up flat tires
(ID #75678) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
saskea in Canada
Hello, I was wondering which Top Coat I should Use I have a Semi Gloss and a Gloss I don't know which one to use on my Strike Freedom and Destiny.. can u tell me which one i should use? thanks
(ID #75780) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Ryan C. in Louisiana, USA
I really like the idea of primoring Gundam parts, but doesn't the primor scrape off when you bend the completed Gundam's joints?
(ID #75822) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Richard Loxam in UK, Stockport
Ill definately be making use of this guide when I am in Japan and my rented apartment is full of gundam :)
(ID #75917) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
:D in Canada
Hello danny, I was wondering if you could give me some tips..... I have a gundam and I painted it. When I use the ink can I ease it? because I tryed using a easer but it didn't work and I also tryed using the gundam marker thing (takes away ink) but it takes away the paint.. It be great if you could tell me and thanks :)
(ID #75969) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Kira in the sky
Hiya :D There doesnt seem to be any way to remove inked parts without removing the paints. If you use acrylic paints, you should seal it with top coat, Future floor acrylic, or johnsons clear, then thats your paint protected. Now try and ink the parts and see if it removes the paint.
(ID #75972) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Winn Sevilla in manila, philippines
waaaaaaah! i just finished my pg strike and i just read this!?!..........
(ID #76008) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
I just got my Strike Rouge PG in the mail! I can't wait to build this thing! So im not going to. I won't be on for awhile...*drool*
(ID #76023) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Kyasharin in Manila, Philippines
cool...i'm re-learning to build kits after a 2 year haitus due to some modelling group problem... this tut really made think twice on how i build kits and paint them...such a simple way yet VERY effective... BTW...just some info i thought you'd like to know...that gray primer you accidentally sprayed can be removed BUT you'll have to sacrifice the plastic of the kit...coz what i do when i do when i screw up occasionally is that dip the part into a container with mr.color thinner for about 30 to 40 seconds when just wipe it off...problem in this is that the plastic become too brittle and extra care for the plastic is a must :P
(ID #76055) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
R. Castillo in Manila, Philippines
Thanks so much for this guide Danny! I've been a Gundam fan for quite some time but have never had the time or the know-how to build Gundam model kits. Because of your tutorial, I have the know-how part nailed down, now I just have to find the time. Cheers!
(ID #76057) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
William in New York
Just wondering, I'm trying to use the gundam markers to paint my Duel AS's backpack (The part that looks silver) . I am getting marks from the marker tip so not all of it gets painted, like it has little slashes or something on it. I'm wondering what I can do to prevent that. Thanks.
(ID #76077) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Andrew in Ventura Calif.
Hey Dan I'm 38 years old and I have been modeling for some 30 years...(damn that is a long time) I've owned a PG Wing Zero Custom Bandi's Flagship PG. It took me only 12 hoours from start to finish construction. Now I'm slowly detailing and painting it. I personally prefer testor's Model Master Paints They use Mil-Spec grade paints. I've been very pleased with my wing Zero and I plan On getting the RX-178 titans and buy the resin Conversion kit to make it the PG Titans Version with the Hyper Mega Launcher. I'm Also looking into getting the Rogue Strike with Skgrasper/Aile Kit. And possiably the IWSP Conversion Kit.A few pointers on stripping off paint. You can Use COleman's Camp Stove Fuel in the 1 Gallon cans it will strip paint and NOT damage plastic. Not even Clear Plastic, which Paint thinner will fog. and a tip for propel cans let them sit IN hot water while you spray. it minimizes the freezing. Plus I should also mention ALWAYS use a Sharp Blade for your hobby knife. a dull one ...welll you might end up chopping a finger to the bone than cutting off a plastic part.Also I use drafting/art pens ranging from .033-.07 German Rotrung are the best, and just wipe off excess dry ink with a soft cloth. No harsh chemicals are needed. IF anyoneelse has any questions write me at geistrazorclaw@aol.com
(ID #76078) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Andrew in Ventura Calif.
William use a SHARP hobby knife blade and carefully trim it.
(ID #76079) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Frisco in California
What's up Dan? Great site! I'm new to building models. My only question is: What type of Top Coat did you use for your PG GP-01? (Flat, or Semi-Gloss?). It looks flat, but then again from an angle it gives off a bit of shine. Thanks in advance.
(ID #76108) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Andrew in vancouver, british columbia (c...
Danny Choo, I love you ^^. Was wondering how far away should I spray paint? For example, the distance from the can to the parts I want to spray paint. I tried doing it before and it created air bubbles and my friend consulted me that I was spraying too close? Thanks again.
(ID #76121) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Johnny Nguyen in USA
Thanks for the great advice. Amazon has American Mastergrades for under 10 dollars! I managed to snag a Kampfer, and most likely will get the others. You've inspired me to take up Gundam Models again! Thanks!
(ID #76176) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Derick Pun in Vancouver BC
Hey Danny the tutorial was a great help but I still have some questions, like do you use the Grey Gundam marker for the white pieces, and the black marker for the coloured pieces. I was wondering how you mixed the GreY and White spray paints to make that light grey with texture...
(ID #76190) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Tyrant001 in San Jose, Costa Rica
Hey, GREAT tutorial. You do almost the same things I do with my models. But...you took pictures of all the steps and since Im a mod in a modelling page...I was wondering if I could link to this page ? So that the people there could watch step by step how do we make a model look good. I already linked it but gave you full credit. Thanks in advance.
(ID #76232) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
Hey Danny quick question. How many coats of paint do you add to a runner? And do you sand inbetween coats? Thanks!
(ID #76376) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Danny Choo in Tokyo
Late reply to Derick Pun. I first sprayed grey but it was too dark so sprayed over it with white which gave just the right grey that I wanted (the grey underneath shows through). Dave, I spray the runner once. then sand and then spray as needed. The new models that I make will be given a coat of undercoat or "Surfacer" before I spray. If you stick in your email address next time, I will be able to respond directly ;-)
(ID #76383) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Chopper Dave in Medford, Oregon
Thanks! That helps, cause the white parts on my MK II Ver. 2 look like crap T.T
(ID #76389) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
marc in singapore
er.....i'm still not very good at gundam modelling,so i may have lots of questions to ask...after spraying paint on the parts right?u ink them and then later fix them together...but there is a thin line of gap in between the parts..what do you do with them???
(ID #76518) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
ross in Tokyo
Hi Danny, Where would your recommend buying these models and paints from? Is there a good shop you can recommend in Tokyo? Thanks :)
(ID #76645) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
ZenD in London, UK
Nice tutorial but I couldn't find any references on installing the LED lights that some of the Perfect Grade kits have, for example the Endless Waltz Wing Zero. If you've ever tried to fit them then I'd be interested to hear how you did it.
(ID #76685) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Avitar in Illinois
Wow, this shows me I really need to ink my models. You sir, are an inspiration to me. I just love going though your gallery and looking at our work.
(ID #77063) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Norman in Philippines
Wow!Thanks for letting me know how to stick that decals.How many hours or days do you paint a 1/100 Master Grade gundam kit?Me,it takes about 2 to 3 days.Is that long?I only paint during my dayoffs,and sometimes if I have extra time before work.But your works are f#@!ng amazing man!
(ID #77160) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
William in New York
I was looking for an airbrush online, and was amazed at how many turned up for different prices on ebay. Just wondering what kind of airbrush I should be looking at. Thanks.
(ID #77230) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
nacho in canada
hey danny. i have one question. on your tutorial it sais you can wipe off the ink right? well i cant wipe my ink off (erase). it just smudges with the paint. can u please help me?
(ID #77447) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
William in New York
nacho, if you're talking about the gundam marker, use a pencil rubber (eraser I think). Usually I just keep smudging it until it pretty much fades away completely, but thats what danny said in the tutorial. Do a ctrl+f for pencil. You'll see it. :)
(ID #77464) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
gmbluedestiny in canada
how do u remove the topcoating on your gundam model kit?
(ID #77532) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
nacho in canada
for erasing the extra gundam marker off your gundam model does that only work on unpainted models? because i painted my strike freedom and i tried to erase it but it dosent work
(ID #77541) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kevin in KINGDOM OF GREAT KEVIN (check ...
could you do that also for MG's??? Do you think Bandai America will soon do what is Bandai Japan is doing for replacement parts?
(ID #77690) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Kai Hian in Singapore
Hi Danny, i've just started trying to paint my gundam models and i have this problem that there are air bubbles form on the surface after i spray with tamiya paint. Any idea why i do get that problem? By the way great tutorial. Thank You!
(ID #77778) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Shingo! in NYC
Hi, Great stuff! You inspired me to continue with the gundam modeling. I do have the same question as many others though. I have a problem with getting bubbles when I spray paint. Why does this happen? Am I spraying too close? if so, how far away should I be spraying? (A picture would be nice thanks )
(ID #77866) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kevin in IN THE GREAT KINGDOM OF KEVIN(...
could you make a tutorial about Resin kits (old injection model kits that MUST have painting and glueing)? THANK YOU!
(ID #77902) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Terence in New York, NY USA
Can you make a tutorial of "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for NOT-Busy People" I got a lot of time. I want to learn the best ways to build my gundams. Bought A LOT of gundams kits in the past month. Just waiting to be built.
(ID #78032) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Derrick in Vancouver BC
I was wondering where I can get my hands on Topcoat, I can find this product anywhere so if you now where to get this in Vancouver ( BC ) email me the location. thankS
(ID #78067) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kevin in MA USA
This is a really basic tip for anyone: I noticed that you were just holding the runners with your hand... well you could just tie some wire around the runner and spray it while holding the wire - that means you don't spray your precious little fingers! And it won't twist around while you're spraying like it would if you used string. Thanks for the cool tutorial.
(ID #78084) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Cal in England (Chinese tho)
That is fantastic tutorial, well done! I am currently transforming my 1/144 HG EX-S gundam using US navy colour scheme, having the toughest time since it is so small but your tutorial helps me a lot esp. on inking and painting, could you tell me what kind of airbrush and compressor you are using now? Coz i am still using brushes to pain which ultimately make the paint really think, nothing i can do tho but i am sure it will be so cool.
(ID #78487) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Will in manchester, England
hey Danny, this is a fantastic site, I'm just about to start my 1/100 destiny now and have everything apart from an air compressor. Instead I have two cans of propellent because i have no more money, what is the two canister trick? and do you have any tips to make the canisters last longer. Thank you
(ID #78805) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Sally in Manchester England
Hey Danny I just wanted to say you have the best modelling site. Great detail, wonderfully written and lots of glossy pics. I've just bought my first kit too 'Gelgoog Jager' HG and wanted to thankyou for such an informative website. We in Manchester SALute you!
(ID #78919) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Chinedu Okoye in London
I've only just got into purchasing models since i watched gundam seed and had enough money to buy them. I'd bought three high grade kits but after seeing yours, i think mine are relatively weak seeing as i just put them together rather than inking them and spraying them etc. Is there anyway of fixing them up to a higher degree once they're already together, please email back. Peace
(ID #79319) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
HEAVENs KATANA in Columbia, South Carolina
omg!!! ur like a friggin king in the timeless world of gundam models. dude, i wish i were like you.
(ID #79384) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kero_kerberus in Singapore
i am a beginner in modelling... i am trying to modelled EX-19 Archangel but there isn't a colour guide, can you help me will that?
(ID #79404) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kero_kerberus in Singapore
Hi, i am a beginner modeller can you help me with the colour guide for EX-19 Archangel? thanks.
(ID #79407) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Kenneth in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi Danny I read the "Gundam Modeling Tutorial for Busy People" already, which give me a lot of help to start with. The first step you mention that you spray directly onto the Runner without any primer. But what is the things you user to spray onto the Runner? I like your site very much Thanx
(ID #79451) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Henry
How do you paint the smaller sections such as vents, eyes, and thrusters? Once we go over the sprues with pain, how do you suggest we do the detail painting?
(ID #79614) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Tim in Vancouver
Thanks for the tutorial. It helped a lot. I have one question though. Which colours did you use to paint your PG Strike? I don't know how to read Japanese so I'm not sure if I could figure out the colours from the manual. If you could email me the list I'd really appreciate it. Thank you. -Tim
(ID #79643) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
uzumaki in NYC
love your tutorial!!! i've been looking for a site with good info like this for quite some time. i have a question...how did you get your pg mk 2 color like that? i have the pg a.e.u.g. mk 2 and am not sure what colors to use. and also do any gundam markers come with those colors? i find it rather difficult to get tamiya sprays over here and i'm iffy on getting them online cuz i don't want to get the wrong colors. Thanks!!
(ID #79791) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kong in Singapore
thumbs up to tis tutorial! u r great man!! i would juz like to ask u how do u spray topcoat ensuring dat the whole gundam is covered? or do u spray more than 1 coat? pls mail back... thx ;)
(ID #79799) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kong in Singapore
im not a pro in modelling... however, i can answer the pray-painting parts coz i was into grafitti... all rite, when u spray, make sure the pressure is same throughout. several light coats is always better than a heavy 1... n many ppl like to press on lightly such dat the can sputters thinking dat by doin tis, little paint will come out... NO!!! tis will result in ugly drops of paint on ur model n u'll end up with bubbles... if u wan a little paint on dat part, juz hold the can further... normally when spraying, it shld be around 20-25 cm from the object.
(ID #79825) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kero in Singapore
hi... i am now doing MG Wing Zero Custom but i dun like th orginial colour... Got any nice advice on how i should colour it? Why is there no paint sample for tamiya, mr hobby or gundam paint very hard to decide the colour like that? Btw this wedsite is way cool, you might wanna take a look. This person modelled all the gundam he or she own till each of them is the real Gundam in reality but the only bad thing is the wedsite is all in jap cant understand a word so can only look at the pic. http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/gallery2/gallery.htm hope you will read this and reply. nice tutorial you have.. help alot
(ID #80050) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
painting n00bie in New York City
how do u apply the top coat instead of telling me to spray nd run ? xD and please provide more spray painting info for people who cant afford a air brush.....thanks
(ID #80494) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
painting n00bie in New York City
by the way u r a great photographer the PG strike gallery is fantastic!
(ID #80495) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Justin in Eagle Rock, Los Angeles
hey Danny i'd just like to say your tutorial was a BIG help, but i was wondering what kind of pencil rubber you used to clean up excess ink while inking the gundam? the erasers ive used leave a wierd texture on the pieces and barely take any ink off. please help me out !
(ID #80880) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Trent in Minnesota, America
I love this guide! I've allways wanted to know how to make really good looking models! All i've been able to do previously is paint little parts with craft paint, and using a black Sharpie for panel lines...
(ID #81025) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Crash Variant
Your site and your tutorial are cool, man. And doing the Gundam by spraying while the parts are still in the runners was the way I did it many years. And we ended up the same way. Except, till now, I preyer Tamiya paint. (Note: No sponsorship from that brand.) Cheers!
(ID #81084) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
kc in singapore
hey danny, i was just wondering, would tamiya spraypaint stick on without primer unlike those water based acrylic paints?
(ID #81208) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Ivan in Canada, BC, Vancouver
I was wondering why the color of my spray paint is so shiny when it is dried compared to yours, is there something I should buy? I prefer to build a non-shiny gundam like yours. Also when I used white spray-paint on my gundam, it seemed to be messy and off color compared to when I sprayed my blue and red paint. Thanks for your time.
(ID #81224) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
yori in canada
i want to buy a perfect grade strike but i was always bad at panting . How can i make the colour just like yours? Thanks for your help
(ID #81343) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Alan in Colorado
I'm a little confused to how you sprayed the runners, did you spray primer on the runners first? or did you just spray paint on em? and which type/brand of paint did you use to get that smooth texture like in your photo. Thnx a lot and your very AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(ID #81344) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
andy in New Jersey
Well I read when what you said about using thinner to get rid of excess paint. So I was wondering if the paint markers Im useing have thinner because when I didnt shake them up enough the paint came out almost like a thin black color(I was using grey Mr. Hobby Gundam seed set) so any way after a few minutes the plastic cracked. So I was wondering of it was bad plastic or was there so much thinner in the marker that it cracked the plastic. Also the gundam is the Aile Stirke Gundam Master Grade.
(ID #81397) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Andy in New Jersey
P.S. Im still learning the do's and dont's about gundam and what I really wanted to know is what are the best paints for gundam and could you tell me where I could get them. As of right now I use paint markers for everything. I dont know if thats the right thing to do because I used a grey marker from a gundam seed marker set and it melted and cracked the plastic. I did shake the marker so the thinner and paint were mixed and I would see if it was mixed by applying it to the tray that the parts are connected to. But the grey marker was the only thing that melted the plastic. So I hope you can give me some good tips and do's and dont's.P.S. It happened to the Aile Strike Master Grade gundam.
(ID #81520) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Ken in Malaysia
Ive learned alot from reading your tips and so on...and got a lot of ideas from looking at your gundam pics....ive worked on my freedom MG however didnt work out really well but i like it....customed some parts silver.....im planning on getting another freedom MG this time however gonna do a better job...looking forward for more tips 4 my new freedom!!! thx danny!~
(ID #82737) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
pacak (Registered on 2008/06/02 16:50)
hey ken im from malaysia to do you went to gundam fare at sungai wang? hopw we can share gundam knowlegde cani have yur email
(ID #202680) Posted on 2008/06/02 17:44
Yashirou
Hey Danny, Are all you're Plamo's just sprayed or are you also using you're Airbrush for painting a complete kit ?
(ID #82834) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Just learner in Richmond
if you do your gundam that way(spray runner, snip and spray). won't the gundam have seamlines(lines that show up when you stick two pieces together)?
(ID #83069) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Brian in Los Angeles
Great tutorial, although i felt it kinda jumped from place to place at times. I collect Super Deformed kits, ever since i was a kid. I was never into painting, since i never really knew how. After building my prized Destiny Gundam, im sad to realize its kinda too late to paint it. I never thought much of nip marks until i saw your tutorial. Makes my paintless collection look like junk. :P
(ID #84063) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Anativeofearth in Louisville, Kentucky
All I want to say is thanks for your detailed pictures and awesome layout. I'm going to spend a little more time with my models, but I still got some tips from this. Thanks Buddy..
(ID #84148) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Edimasta in Vienna
Hi, I would need some help... I want to paint / spray my gundams too, but I am really worried about the Tamiya colors because I don't know if it's the right one or not :) Could you tell me the "codes" of the sprays you used for your Strike Gundam and the RX-178 MK II (both Perfect Grades) because the colors for the RX-178 are really tough to find... don't know which one it should be, some sort of grey-blue-green or... oO Or is there any forum or site that tells, which code of tamiya spray is fitting the colors of the gundams...?
(ID #84185) Posted on 1999/11/30 15:24
Do you know of a site or place near where I live that I could get some Tamiya spary cans to paint my gundam? I'm trying to use Testors spray to no avail...... Please email me back as soon possible.
(ID #100163) Posted on 2008/03/03 12:18
First of all this is not knocking Danny at all, as he lists this as Modeling for BUSY people (which means taking short cuts), So please don't take it any other way but for people who want to spend more time getting it perfect. Really if you are crazy into modeling, DON'T spray your pieces on the runner!!! Clip them all off, scrape the gates down nice and smooth with a hobby knife, and then paint them. Also a lot of people are saying their paint is coming off easily. Make sure you use PRIMER first over every piece you have. Then give your pieces a nice 1 or 2 coats of paint. Make sure you let your pieces dry over night between each step. There is a "curing" process that happens with paint. It stays a little wet until all the chemical stuff has evaporated. After the paint has set, THEN use markers to do the lines. If you don't wait for the paint to dry, your marker ink will combine with the paint, and you won't be able to remove it well. Also, use water based pens, not oil and definitely not PERMANENT! A really good way to do the lines is to dilute your paint with rubbing alcohol, then use a sharp hobby knife, dip it in the paint, and touch the inside of the lines. The paint should run along the lines, you can help it along with the knife point. Also., if you use sandpaper at any time, make sure it's a very high number, 600 or above, and DON'T push hard! If you push too hard you'll add so many scratches to the finish that you'll have to putty them before you paint. It would be really cool if people read this... but i'm sure i'll see the same questions asked after this is posted.... =P
(ID #125558) Posted on 2008/03/04 14:11
Danny, what type of putty do you prefer?
(ID #156559) Posted on 2008/03/15 11:08
Danny, I've been building Gunpla for eight years, and tried etching for the first time today. It was brutal! I thought you were supposed to keep that piece of wax paper (?) between the etching sheet and the part you're etching onto, like that was supposed to help it transfer onto the part but no. I just etched directly onto the wax paper and ruined it. So, I tried it without the wax paper and it worked perfectly. However, after my first perfect etching, I accidentally got a piece of tape stuck to it, and when I took it off - another etching ruined. ARRGH! I eventually got the hang of it, and with the etchings I had left, managed to get it to look okay. If only I'd paid more attention to this guide... The model was the MG Full Armor ZZ. I'd post pictures but my camera is way too lo-res to show details (you can tell where I messed up, but it looks better than it did with no etchings). I only got six markings down right before I got tired. I still have all the etching sheets saved from all my other MG kits (I have about a dozen) so eventually I'll work on those too. I figure it's a lot easier to do this while building a kit, and not afterwards. The Full Armor ZZ is really complicated to take apart, etc. and that made this take longer than it should have. One day, I'll get a decent camera... and one day, I'll try painting a whole kit, too. Maybe when I have my own house or apartment. Heh.
(ID #158826) Posted on 2008/03/20 09:44
Part trooper, part -timer, 100% loser...
I just started making models and your tutorial is really helpful~ Thanks Danny!
(ID #159441) Posted on 2008/03/21 13:55
I just bought the Gurren Lagann kit (not sure about the scale, it's the $40 one) and I got a set of paints that are made by Gaianotes specifically for the kit, like the Gundam paints. I suppose now I'm gonna have to invest in an airbrush to paint it with the "specially made" GL paints, as they're in pots, not sprayable. I've wanted to get into more sustained modeling for a while now, so I guess it's good that this is forcing my hand. I priced a cheap compressor/airbrush set with a stepdown converter from Hobby Search (great stock, awful item descriptions), and it'd be like $200 shipped, methinks. Unfortunately for me, an Iwata compressor/airbrush combo is about $200 from a local vendor, so.... I never thought I'd see the day where I'd get something heavy shipped from Japan for the same price without shipping from my local art/hobby store.
(ID #167209) Posted on 2008/04/06 13:33
Bugz (Registered on 2008/04/23 05:49)
hay im jus startin to airbrush n i waz wonderin were did u get dat air compressor?
(ID #174077) Posted on 2008/04/23 05:41
Kiyochi (Registered on 2008/04/28 06:06)
Good Tutuorial, But I would include safely measure even this is for busy people. A regular mask will NOT protect you from dangerous chemicals produced by any paint. Inhaling these chemicals will cause cancer. So buy a Respirator from your local hardware store and paint outside. If you want to paint inside, you will definitely want to buy and make a spray booth.
(ID #176326) Posted on 2008/04/28 06:12
pacak (Registered on 2008/06/02 16:50)
hello there danny i just want to ask am a beginer in the paint job ,after reading your tips i straight away buy the mr hobby paint, unfortunalty here in malaysia dnt have much choice.they only have leveling thinner is that suit for paint? neway that for now hope i can have ask yur directly.thanks
(ID #202665) Posted on 2008/06/02 17:29
Thanks, I'll practice!
(ID #230802) Posted on 2008/07/06 01:28
Hi there, I hope Danny will personally reply an email on this one - risingsun900009@hotmail.com I am now waitng for the semester to re-popen (2 months)so I have done a little bit of research on picking up a hobby. Danny's page appeared randomly and I am amazed with his pieces of Gundam. The next day, I bought my very 1st Gundam- a MG Wing Zero + tamiya spray paints, basic set of gundam market and line inker pen. I have some questions: 1. What is the use of the basic gundam marker? (as displayed on your pics). Obviously I have tried it on a plastic frame before applying and found out that it does not go well with tamiya spray (unrealistic). 2. Does Top Coat give glossy effect on a gundam? Can I use something cheap like clear aresol spray as substitute? 3. I am aware that PG includes LED but do you think its possible for me to fit in a tiny LED in a MG? (was wondering cuz of the eye part is designed transparent) Thanks and Cheers
(ID #231805) Posted on 2008/07/07 07:12
Hi Danny, my name is Blake. I recently got the Perfect Grade Wing Gundam Zero Custom 1/60th scale and I was wondering how you did the wiring for the LED's in the head and chest. The diagram in the instruction manual was so mindboggling that I bypassed that part to finish the gundam. I like to know how you did the original wiring in detail, that way my gundam's eyes and chest can light up. my e-mail address is gunsnipe3795@yahoo.com. Pleas help me out Danny. thanks (if anyone who know's how to do the wiring for this kit, please e-mail me.)
(ID #233848) Posted on 2008/07/09 16:28
Future civil engineer but desperate to be an animator
HI Danny, i have a questions for u. Could i use other coloring materials such as poster color to do the paintng? Will it give similar effect?
(ID #235000) Posted on 2008/07/11 05:19
do they sell top coat here in the U.S.? if they do where? and if not what is a good alternative for it? a reply would be great! thanks!
(ID #238136) Posted on 2008/07/15 09:27
college student
wow...i am so confuse....wut is a nip? wut is a runner? wut are all thsoe term....aiya!! someone explain everything to me plz!
(ID #245261) Posted on 2008/07/23 18:04
...I dun think i can paint it as good as you are,Danny....I don't even have an inking gundam marker....don't know where to find one(actually i have one but it's for the SD Gundam)....man Indonesia sucks!!!
(ID #295902) Posted on 2008/09/09 21:49
I just started my collection and.. well I bought a lot of figures before and unfortunately I lost them all... so this time I'm gonna try to make this work! this definitely helps me a lot! hehe!
(ID #317010) Posted on 2008/09/29 14:00
TaskaroAKAtr1ckmastrAKANoobNeedsHelp in Up your butt and around the corner (Registered on 2008/10/14 11:24)
student
danny what markers did you get? i'm wantting to ink ma gundams and i got 2 SDs, RX78 GPO1, Wing zero custom, and heavy arms. I'll get BK-II later so what gundam markers are good for these and are commonly used for all gundams? (pssssssssttttttttt your RX78 GP01 looks uber cool -envies-)
(ID #333637) Posted on 2008/10/14 11:28
Very nice detailed. Helped greatly, thanks.
(ID #348313) Posted on 2008/10/27 17:34
I'm gonna try some of the tips I learned here tonight with my MG Force Impulse! Danny you rock!
(ID #352766) Posted on 2008/10/31 06:31
I know this link is very old but I've never commented on this till now so just wanted to say this is one of the best gundam modeling tutorial ever, I hope danny will start making gunpla again soon and make a tutorial for not so busy people where he could show his best tips! Thanks for the decal tip btw, the tape idea is great!
(ID #356430) Posted on 2008/11/03 06:33
Kochi Yuy (Registered on 2008/05/20 12:42)
can anyone and I mean anyone tell me how to fix broken pieces? Let me clarify. When I was changing my zeta 2.0 from waverider back to gundam mode one day, I accidentally ripped part of the wing. Now the wing has a crack. The wing is still held together, but it looks like there is just one large seam mark. I was wondering if gluing the crack with cement glue and constantly sanding the crack would cause the crack mark to be fixed. If anyone knows how to make a crack mark on a gundam look like it has never been there before please give me advice. D:
(ID #361725) Posted on 2008/11/07 07:44
You could try first of all to glue the wing back in place, then use modelling putty to cover up the seam (both sides of the wing) then sand it down til it is smoothe. Then you can prime/re-paint/decal it.
(ID #390507) Posted on 2008/11/29 04:50
Inhabitant
Thanks for this tutorial. It's so insipiring. Goodbye, from the box Bandai mobile suit default stickers. Bwuhahahaha!
(ID #425387) Posted on 2008/12/26 02:41
Can this be applied to a kit that has already been assembled? I have two that I assembled a few months back I want to make them look awesome as they are my first not broken while assembling models. Most of the others i've got have either spoff repairs on the ankle joints or have been reconstructed usinging various glues. *sigh* damn cats....
(ID #429325) Posted on 2008/12/30 13:29
Hey guyz if you need some answers on Topcoating (no paint but normal clear spray that enhances ur gundam) just add my e-mail (unlimted_bladeworkz@hotmail.com)
(ID #429714) Posted on 2008/12/30 20:58
Hey guyz if you need some answers on Topcoating (not paint but normal clear spray that enhances ur gundam) just add my e-mail (unlimted_bladeworkz@hotmail.com)
(ID #429715) Posted on 2008/12/30 20:58
I must say, this tutorial is really a great one! Thanks Danny for this :D The main trick to building gunpla really is finding your own technique and have a 'go for it' attitude (and also incorporating some of the tricks Danny has done :P)
(ID #433178) Posted on 2009/01/02 23:42
wahat kind of paint are you using im new to this hobby is it a resular spray paint?
(ID #496101) Posted on 2009/02/20 13:59
I'm currently using acrylic paints with my Tamiya Spraywork Basic air compressor w/ airbrush. But any kind of paint and any method of painting will do as long as it sticks to the plastic XD
(ID #506000) Posted on 2009/03/01 20:25
Looks like a complicated stuff to me where there's no room for error. And you look awesome without the glasses, Danny! ^-^ I couldn't recognise you without them!
(ID #436648) Posted on 2009/01/06 00:53
Can I ask for advice? How can I get rid of those swirling blemish on some parts without resorting to paint? I'm planning on using only Markers since paint costs more.
(ID #441846) Posted on 2009/01/10 00:48
photographer, Father, future DIRECTOR
The swirling blemish is part of the poring process and there for is a side defect that really can't be removed unless you paint, some sanding may be able to remove a little but I'm not going to make that claim. ^_^ Good luck and have fun with it!
(ID #449406) Posted on 2009/01/16 01:41
AceDudeyeah (Registered on 2009/01/16 11:30)
Is there anyone that knows of any substitute to gundam markers? I've looked for paint markers but what kinds are able to be cleaned-up/removed by eraser like gundam markers? And I would love one with a thin point like a gundam marker's.
(ID #450036) Posted on 2009/01/16 11:34
Thats a long process but I'm so totally up for that. I'll refer to this when I get my firs MG or PG.
(ID #460775) Posted on 2009/01/25 00:11
Student/ Anime Club Leader at St. Joseph Secondary
hey thanks a lot Danny! this will surely help when im building my MG or PG's. Great work with the airbrush skills! ^0^
(ID #462355) Posted on 2009/01/26 08:32
Hey Dan! New to the site and loved your Gundam modeling tutorial immensely!!! Currently working on my MG Wing Zero Custom Ver. KA!! I have a repair tip request regarding my MG Gundam MK II Titans. I attempted to recement a piece inside the head that helps to secure one the ABS ball joint. It's not the entire mount but a tiny piece that broke off from the left mount if that makes any sense. I attempted to recement this piece with Zap a Gap had no success. I'm sure yourself and fellow gunpla modeling enthusiasts out there have had one or two Gundam kits suffer the same fate. Is there a way to remedy this situation or should I start playing 'taps' for my Titans MK II? Any insight would be appreciated! Thx!!!
(ID #483216) Posted on 2009/02/11 05:50
After several failed attempts to repair the mount using various tried-and-true methods, I finally gave up and filled the head with green putty in desperation. Halfway through the drying process I discarded the ball joint and gently mounted the head to the base of the neck. Satisfied with the adjustments I made I let it dry overnight. I admit it was a desperate solution but it works perfectly nonetheless and for the sole purpose of rescuing my cherished MG Gundam from the spare parts box. The Titans MkII has returned to his rightful place standing proudly among his 1/100 scale brethren on the bookcase shelf. Don't know how long this will last but like to think I've given this Gundam a few extra years. I just need remind myself not to turn its head :)
(ID #515272) Posted on 2009/03/09 22:48
What kind of paint are you using acrylic, enamel..?
(ID #496100) Posted on 2009/02/20 13:56
I have a force impulse gundam and I have no airbrush can I hand paint it? I have bought a mr color 50 thinner and a gundam color paint for my force impulse. Please help
(ID #498575) Posted on 2009/02/22 20:51
can you please email me at ronald_choa05@yahoo.com thnx about my question
(ID #498583) Posted on 2009/02/22 21:05
Woah Danny you went really indepth on this tutorial... man if I had this much time and experties I would buy more gundam models. Man this is so FTW
(ID #521009) Posted on 2009/03/14 10:02
Hihi, very appreciative that you have this tutorial. I am practically a noob, so far I only buy and build my models. I do not paint them. Reading so much about how you can make a gundam look so much more real is very inspiring. But I was wondering, is it possible to apply the above techniques to High Grade 1/144 series?
(ID #563021) Posted on 2009/04/15 00:53
Hey, i have a quick question, since im so noob in the world of gundam making >_< . When you sprayed all of the runners gray, why was this done? Was this to set them so that you could start fresh on paint? And what is top coat used for. Also, For a beginner into gundams, should i just leave the paint that a gundam comes with, and then slowly start to experiment in custom painting? Sorry for so many questions >_<. Thanks!!! and great job. -Kevin
(ID #593281) Posted on 2009/05/06 17:55
Looks like you get to keep your spleen eh, danny? ^^
(ID #622737) Posted on 2009/05/27 13:39
Design Student. Occasional Retailor of Delicious Toubed Meats.
This is probably the most helpful thing I've ever read on the internet ever. ^_^ I had no idea you could use an eraser to clean up ink marks. Thanks Danny!
(ID #644251) Posted on 2009/06/14 15:12
Do you have any videos?
(ID #656433) Posted on 2009/06/25 16:11
hey thanks for the great tutorial! by the way, in image #481 what did u spray? was it flat top coat directly or was it matte color spray?
(ID #664264) Posted on 2009/07/02 22:44
Back in September, I organized a gathering of bloggers, YouTubers, and fo...(more)
Wed 01/28 15:43 comments (120)
Tis the rainy season in Japan right now meaning that many house and shop entrances across Japan star...(more)
Sat 07/04 11:31 comments (78)
The Mirai Suenaga Merchandise project has changed gears and is back on the project timeline. I've be...(more)
Fri 07/03 22:16 comments (90)
Subscribe to RSS or get dannychoo.com delivered to your inbox.
